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<blockquote data-quote="audiolife" data-source="post: 7574794" data-attributes="member: 541383"><p>If you can load test it. Hit it with a 40 to 100 amp load (depending on the size of battery) then recharge with a Ctek MUS7002 or a pulsetech extreme charger.(see if it has some gumption left in it) If you mess around and have old batteries, buy used or just have a lot of batteries, having your own chargers and load tester is not a bad investment. If you want longer life span and longer more consistant performance its the best way to go. In all honesty its hard to tell if its salvagable or not because if the charger being used can not &quot;read&quot; the battery it can very well over charge it and not have anyother modes to&nbsp; break up crystalization. Think of the crystalization as a coating surrounding the plates of the battery and its blocking electricity to allow the chemical reactions to take place inside the battery to recharge. I have brought back batteries that I never get a straight answer on HOW it got down to 3 or 4 volts. Sometimes they come back sometimes they dont. Even had some batteries rest at 12.1 volts not come back. Key point to always remember is an alternator IS NOT a battery charger. Just because a battery starts your vehicle doesn&#039;t mean its in good shape and to check where the battery is as far as state of charge it must no be recieving a charge for 3+ hours. You CAN NOT measure with the car on or right after it is turned of or just taken off a charger. There would be a surface charge on the battery that would make it read higher than it really is and if you load test it right after you take it off a charge you would be padding its results in a load test.</p></blockquote><p></p>

[QUOTE="audiolife, post: 7574794, member: 541383"] If you can load test it. Hit it with a 40 to 100 amp load (depending on the size of battery) then recharge with a Ctek MUS7002 or a pulsetech extreme charger.(see if it has some gumption left in it) If you mess around and have old batteries, buy used or just have a lot of batteries, having your own chargers and load tester is not a bad investment. If you want longer life span and longer more consistant performance its the best way to go. In all honesty its hard to tell if its salvagable or not because if the charger being used can not "read" the battery it can very well over charge it and not have anyother modes to break up crystalization. Think of the crystalization as a coating surrounding the plates of the battery and its blocking electricity to allow the chemical reactions to take place inside the battery to recharge. I have brought back batteries that I never get a straight answer on HOW it got down to 3 or 4 volts. Sometimes they come back sometimes they dont. Even had some batteries rest at 12.1 volts not come back. Key point to always remember is an alternator IS NOT a battery charger. Just because a battery starts your vehicle doesn't mean its in good shape and to check where the battery is as far as state of charge it must no be recieving a charge for 3+ hours. You CAN NOT measure with the car on or right after it is turned of or just taken off a charger. There would be a surface charge on the battery that would make it read higher than it really is and if you load test it right after you take it off a charge you would be padding its results in a load test. [/QUOTE]

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