Reply to thread

Message: <blockquote data-quote="hispls" data-source="post: 8661112" data-attributes="member: 614752">I'm going to guess that 1.75 cube is either "minimum" or a flat out lie. That is small for a modern 12" sub ported. The one 12w7 I ever built a box for IIRC wanted a rather large box to model nicely. It definitely would have stuck in my mind if box space was that small. Throw it into WInISD and check for yourself if you like. New RE subs are questionable. I like the W7 over new XXX, they'll be more efficient. Still not impressed with the Orion HCCA either. Fi products are very nice and made in USA, the big downside there is 4-6 week average build times to fill your order. Since it seems you're not on a budget also worth considering DD products. Their woofers are also built in-house in the USA and while their amps are Korean (almost everything is these days) are also proven performers. As far as big power handling numbers, be careful with that. A lot of that is flat out lies and while there are definitely subs that can hang with 2500W continuous, and basically everything we can do to make subs handle more power without failing all rob from efficiency to do it so where you wind up is buying a 5000w amp to get a pair of 2400W subs to get just as loud as a more efficient pair of 1200W subs on 2500W amp.... but when it comes time for dick measuring about how much power you're running at your subs you win some bragging rights there.I'm a big fan of Zed Audio for amps. He's the guy who did Hifonics, Alphasonic, Rodek, ESX, US Acoustics, Lanzar, Crunch 50, Autotek, and a number of other old school tanks. He also designed some modern Focal, Mosconi, and Phoenix Gold offerings. His new full range class D amps are excellent and have some great flexible on-board crossover features. They are a bit big since he uses regulated power supply, so if space is an issue you can find smaller full range class D elsewhere. His sub amps may be a bit small for your needs depending how loud you think you want to get there but the multichannels would be solid for running some fronts.As far as electrical, proper high output alternator is the best place to start and may be all you need. Competition tier high output alternators are "6 phase" and "hairpin" (flat wire). They are capable of real world 300A or more! Depending on how much power you chose to run just that + upgrading your primary battery to a good quality AGM would probably do. If that's not possible Lithium battery technology is your best option for power storage but the energy MUST BE created by your alternator so you'll need to basically add batteries until you have enough storage to play as long as you like, loud, between downtime for the alternator(s) to replenish your battery reserves. I use Excessive Amperage alternator, Nathan has always done me right. Ohio Generator has been in the business a long time and I've heard nothing but praise from people who own them around here, Mechman and Singer are also pretty well established for quality alternators.How loud do you really want to get and how much space will you have to work with? That'll help a lot trying to at least rule out gear that won't really fit your goals. I'm guessing you might really be underestimating what 3 modern 12s on a legit 6K amp can accomplish, either that or you want to be able to get loud enough to break shit in your car.... both are cool. </blockquote>

Verification

Top

What's new

Forum list