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Project: Door Panels ****
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<blockquote data-quote="jmanpc" data-source="post: 3144170" data-attributes="member: 565915"><p>The problem:</p><p></p><p>For the past couple months, ever since I installed my Tang Band midbasses, I've been making baby steps towards better sound.... things like deadening, weatherstripping, and attempting to dampen the door panels. So far, I am very pleased with the Tang Bands, but my doors are another issue. With the deadener in, my midbasses could easily pass as a good 10" sub, but the problem is they rattle my door panels like crazy. I've tried using deadener on them, strategicly placing foam pieces, and just friggin leaning on them, but nothing seems to work. I think this is mainly because the door panel actually contacts the speaker, and all I have separating them is some foam wweatherstripping. The door panels sound like.... flimsy cheap plastic as they buzz along with the bass.... which is funny because they just happen to be flimsy cheap plastic.</p><p></p><p>Another problem that I've learned to live with is that my windows go down halfway //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif I know, shame on me. It was a sacrifice I was willing to make for some kickass midbass.</p><p></p><p>The goals:</p><p></p><p>1) Stop the da<span style="color: Black">m</span>n rattles!</p><p></p><p>2) Be able to roll down my windows</p><p></p><p>3) Help SQ out a notch</p><p></p><p>4) Maintain a factory look</p><p></p><p>The method:</p><p></p><p>Step 1: Driver remounting- Remove midbasses from doors, and remove any excess butyl from the deadener, or adhesive from the weatherstripping. Cut new baffle pieces out of 3/4" MDF, paint them black, apply caulk to the back side, and secure them to the door.</p><p></p><p>Step 2: Door panel modification- Luckily, the area of the door panel that forms the map pocket and speaker grille is easily removable. I will remove that area in a fashion that will allow me to return it to the stock condition if I so desire.</p><p></p><p>Step 3: Factory appearance- I am going to use hardboard to form a baffle that will replace the removed panel. It will have a hole in it to accomodate the midbass, to where the midbass will not be in contact with the door panel at all. The hardboard piece will be wrapped in vinyl that matches the factory gray as best as possible. Then, around the hole, I will make a ring to which I will adhere grille cloth to cover the driver in order to maintain the factory appearance.</p><p></p><p>Comments? Questions? Suggestions?</p><p></p><p>I will be posting pics when I start the project after work tomorrow.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jmanpc, post: 3144170, member: 565915"] The problem: For the past couple months, ever since I installed my Tang Band midbasses, I've been making baby steps towards better sound.... things like deadening, weatherstripping, and attempting to dampen the door panels. So far, I am very pleased with the Tang Bands, but my doors are another issue. With the deadener in, my midbasses could easily pass as a good 10" sub, but the problem is they rattle my door panels like crazy. I've tried using deadener on them, strategicly placing foam pieces, and just friggin leaning on them, but nothing seems to work. I think this is mainly because the door panel actually contacts the speaker, and all I have separating them is some foam wweatherstripping. The door panels sound like.... flimsy cheap plastic as they buzz along with the bass.... which is funny because they just happen to be flimsy cheap plastic. Another problem that I've learned to live with is that my windows go down halfway [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blush.gif.99bc659ee2012b7d826165e26fb5eebe.gif[/IMG] I know, shame on me. It was a sacrifice I was willing to make for some kickass midbass. The goals: 1) Stop the da[COLOR=Black]m[/COLOR]n rattles! 2) Be able to roll down my windows 3) Help SQ out a notch 4) Maintain a factory look The method: Step 1: Driver remounting- Remove midbasses from doors, and remove any excess butyl from the deadener, or adhesive from the weatherstripping. Cut new baffle pieces out of 3/4" MDF, paint them black, apply caulk to the back side, and secure them to the door. Step 2: Door panel modification- Luckily, the area of the door panel that forms the map pocket and speaker grille is easily removable. I will remove that area in a fashion that will allow me to return it to the stock condition if I so desire. Step 3: Factory appearance- I am going to use hardboard to form a baffle that will replace the removed panel. It will have a hole in it to accomodate the midbass, to where the midbass will not be in contact with the door panel at all. The hardboard piece will be wrapped in vinyl that matches the factory gray as best as possible. Then, around the hole, I will make a ring to which I will adhere grille cloth to cover the driver in order to maintain the factory appearance. Comments? Questions? Suggestions? I will be posting pics when I start the project after work tomorrow. [/QUOTE]
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