Power Pack to power JBL MS-62C speakers?

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

I have decided to choose the JBL's comps. for my front stage for my truck. I am buying an alpine cde-hd137bt head unit and am looking to add the ktp-445u power pack as well.

Now, here are my options:

Should I Y the power pack so each set of speaker receives 90 watts (2 channels to the set and utilize the crossover)?

or

Should I run the power pack to each woofer and tweeter of each set of speakers so each part recieves 45 watts(1 channel to a speaker)?

or

Should I purchase a different amp in place of the power pack all together? If so, which one?

For my backstage, I am just going to upgrade the 6x8 speakers but only for a midbass. I plan on powering the new speakers through the head unit only. Any recommendations on any speakers for this?

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[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Honestly, I'd recommend a different amp altogether. The power pack is a nice idea because you can hide it away but you'll be effed on adjustments. Thought about that after you brought it up last time. And you won't be able to run each woofer and tweeter on separate channels because that HU isn't capable of active crossover points (ie can't HPF the tweeters high enough). Best bet is to either go with the power pack and run the comps bridged or get a separate amp altogether.

Btw, I'm running those MS comps at about 50W each right now and they sounds pretty loud and proud. I'll put up a video tonight showing you what I mean. Just keep your eyes open.

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

Honestly, I'd recommend a different amp altogether. The power pack is a nice idea because you can hide it away but you'll be effed on adjustments. Thought about that after you brought it up last time. And you won't be able to run each woofer and tweeter on separate channels because that HU isn't capable of active crossover points (ie can't HPF the tweeters high enough). Best bet is to either go with the power pack and run the comps bridged or get a separate amp altogether.
Btw, I'm running those MS comps at about 50W each right now and they sounds pretty loud and proud. I'll put up a video tonight showing you what I mean. Just keep your eyes open.

Thanks man, I really do appreciate the help. I understand what your saying about the active crossover points now, took me a second to understand by what you meant before. Also, I was going to mount in my glove box so I could access it.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Thanks man, I really do appreciate the help. I understand what your saying about the active crossover points now, took me a second to understand by what you meant before. Also, I was going to mount in my glove box so I could access it.

Fair enough. That's the big advantage to the power pack. That and there's less risk of noise through the RCAs since it's a short run. It'll be the easier install, but I think you'll get more and be set up better for the future if you just get a separate amp for the trunk.

Btw, video is uploading now of the updated sound test on my MS comps, you can see the original here:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/563492-jbl-ms62c-06-passat-speaker-baffles-2.html#post8269826

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

Fair enough. That's the big advantage to the power pack. That and there's less risk of noise through the RCAs since it's a short run. It'll be the easier install, but I think you'll get more and be set up better for the future if you just get a separate amp for the trunk.
Btw, video is uploading now of the updated sound test on my MS comps, you can see the original here:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/563492-jbl-ms62c-06-passat-speaker-baffles-2.html#post8269826

Unfortunately, I do not have a trunk. Although, I feel like it's the most useful thing when dealing with car audio due to the extra space.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Bah good call. Forgot about the truck comment in the first post. There's small footprint amps like the PPI P900.4 ($200) that would easily fit under your driver's seat and should be easy enough to adjust and with dang near four times the power output of the power pack. Also has crossover points high enough for active use. Food for thought...

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

Bah good call. Forgot about the truck comment in the first post. There's small footprint amps like the PPI P900.4 ($200) that would easily fit under your driver's seat and should be easy enough to adjust and with dang near four times the power output of the power pack. Also has crossover points high enough for active use. Food for thought...

I will definitely consider that, especially only at that price point. The only reason, I really want the power pack is because it is small, convenient and does not take up space. I would put a 5 way amp in but they are to dang big. And I would want to put a 4 way; but when I do want to put in a sub, I don't want to be running two separate amps due to the limited space in the cab. But that can always change.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

I will definitely consider that, especially only at that price point. The only reason, I really want the power pack is because it is small, convenient and does not take up space. I would put a 5 way amp in but they are to dang big. And I would want to put a 4 way; but when I do want to put in a sub, I don't want to be running two separate amps due to the limited space in the cab. But that can always change.

On that P900.4, you could run the comps off two channels and the remaining two bridged to a dual 2 ohm sub. Should be more than enough power for the cab and you won't need a second amp.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Thanks man, I really do appreciate the help. I understand what your saying about the active crossover points now, took me a second to understand by what you meant before. Also, I was going to mount in my glove box so I could access it.

Video's up btw, feel free to get an idea of what you'll have installed in your truck. Running at about the same power you'd get on that power pack.

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

On that P900.4, you could run the comps off two channels and the remaining two bridged to a dual 2 ohm sub. Should be more than enough power for the cab and you won't need a second amp.

I agree. Do you have any recommendations on what 6x8 speakers to use for the back to fill in as a midbass. I would want them not to sound muddy at higher volumes, be able to run off the head unit, and will run smoothly with the 62c's so they don't fall behind?

I was looking at these:

Kicker KS68 6"x8" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

or these

Polk Audio DXi570 5"x7"/6"x8" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

as some options.

Any input?

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

Video's up btw, feel free to get an idea of what you'll have installed in your truck. Running at about the same power you'd get on that power pack.

Definitely appreciate it, thanks.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

I wouldn't be looking at coax if you're looking for rear fill; midbass drivers would be more ideal. Let me take a few minutes to find something better for you.

 

[neo_styles 10+ year member]

Since the only thing that should be a direct drop in will be coaxials, you could go with these:

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12262_JBL-P8662.html

Or flex your fabrication chops and make baffles to fit a 6.5" and go with something more like this:

WoofersEtc.com - CTX6M - Image Dynamics CTX Series 6.5" Midrange Speakers

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

I wouldn't be looking at coax if you're looking for rear fill; midbass drivers would be more ideal. Let me take a few minutes to find something better for you.

Good point, thanks.

 

[-Josh- 10+ year member]

On the JBL's what would you recommend reducing the tweeter output to?