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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8632651" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>Calculations should be all the same its basic math, same sh*t as winisd calculations, its all the same formulas, nothing different except RE box calculator thats proven and well known to be beyond garbage and completely innacurate. However newbies dont understand the concept of port, sub and bracing displacement and that you need to figure that out first get a proper cubic feet number(accounting in thickness of the wood and overall bracing used) then add on the net airspace afterwards to get a total gross cubic feet airspace to try and achieve with your dimensions. Thats how We used to design boxes by hand.</p><p></p><p>However all of the noobs completely mess it up and get it wrong and use the port dimensions into a box without subtracting displacements. Leaving them with a much smaller box and a much higher tuning and they dont understand why their box sounds like garbage.</p><p></p><p>Torres and xplicit audio's ultimate car app literally cleans up all that for you and includes everything in the calculations. The most accurate way is google sketchup where you can 3d model the enclosure and get everything down to the millimeter accurately.</p><p></p><p></p><p>They are only valid if you understand the concept of what i just said. I'd stick with torres or ultimate car app on the phone. Especially since you look like you have no understanding of the proper math to design sub enclosures and you'll most likely end up with a cr@ppy port that'll cause compression (aka loss of output aka strangling your sub) and port noise judging from your original design with the 3 inch aero. The port area per foot keeps you relatively in check especially since you are new to this.</p><p></p><p>The proper way is to model it up on winsid and see rear air velocities according to your input power.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8632651, member: 650438"] Calculations should be all the same its basic math, same sh*t as winisd calculations, its all the same formulas, nothing different except RE box calculator thats proven and well known to be beyond garbage and completely innacurate. However newbies dont understand the concept of port, sub and bracing displacement and that you need to figure that out first get a proper cubic feet number(accounting in thickness of the wood and overall bracing used) then add on the net airspace afterwards to get a total gross cubic feet airspace to try and achieve with your dimensions. Thats how We used to design boxes by hand. However all of the noobs completely mess it up and get it wrong and use the port dimensions into a box without subtracting displacements. Leaving them with a much smaller box and a much higher tuning and they dont understand why their box sounds like garbage. Torres and xplicit audio's ultimate car app literally cleans up all that for you and includes everything in the calculations. The most accurate way is google sketchup where you can 3d model the enclosure and get everything down to the millimeter accurately. They are only valid if you understand the concept of what i just said. I'd stick with torres or ultimate car app on the phone. Especially since you look like you have no understanding of the proper math to design sub enclosures and you'll most likely end up with a cr@ppy port that'll cause compression (aka loss of output aka strangling your sub) and port noise judging from your original design with the 3 inch aero. The port area per foot keeps you relatively in check especially since you are new to this. The proper way is to model it up on winsid and see rear air velocities according to your input power. [/QUOTE]
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