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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7424135" data-attributes="member: 576029">wire one sub to channels 1&amp;amp;2 bridged.&nbsp; wire the other sub into channels 3&amp;amp;4 bridged.that is the only way to run your equipment (and expect any useful output).it has high level inputs and has a switch for 2 channel input mode.&nbsp; that&#039;s good.&nbsp; as such, you&#039;ll only need to run speaker wires from the rear left and rear right to the amp and you don&#039;t need a LOC.&nbsp; you&#039;ll still need to tap a factory turn-on wire in order to get a turn-on for the amp. don&#039;t just use an switched ignition wire for amp turn on - find a wire in the factory harness that provides 12V only when the head unit is on.&nbsp;&nbsp; if you don&#039;t have a turn-on wire, then i&#039;d get a LOC with an auto turn-on feature (David Navone) so you minimize hassle and increase safety.manual for reference:<a href="http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xpa.pdf" target="_blank">http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xpa.pdf</a></blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7424135, member: 576029"] wire one sub to channels 1&2 bridged. wire the other sub into channels 3&4 bridged. that is the only way to run your equipment (and expect any useful output). it has high level inputs and has a switch for 2 channel input mode. that's good. as such, you'll only need to run speaker wires from the rear left and rear right to the amp and you don't need a LOC. you'll still need to tap a factory turn-on wire in order to get a turn-on for the amp. don't just use an switched ignition wire for amp turn on - find a wire in the factory harness that provides 12V only when the head unit is on. if you don't have a turn-on wire, then i'd get a LOC with an auto turn-on feature (David Navone) so you minimize hassle and increase safety. manual for reference: [URL="http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xpa.pdf"]http://www.dualav.com/support/manuals/xpa.pdf[/URL] [/QUOTE]

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