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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7421554" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>you've never seen someone give that much power to that sub. you've only heard people say they've done it because they think the numbers on their amp are attainable. if the sub could handle a true RMS, the manufacturer would state that in their ratings. their ratings of wattage are based on the thermal handling of the voice coil assembly and the current rating of the voice coil. exceed either and the sub fails. the manufacturer knows more about their products than anyone else, and their ratings are determined through experimentation and engineering. can the sub handle a short musical peak of 1200W RMS? maybe, if mechanical limits are not exceeded. can it handle sustained 1200W RMS? no. even a short duration can melt the lamination on the voice coil winding causing instant failure.</p><p></p><p>you're hifonics is not going to make rated power except on a test bench with a high-current regulated supply - and for about a second. on an OEM alt, you won't get a good amp rated at 14.4V to make rated power - ever. as you increase power output you increase current draw which will cause voltage drop. 14.4V ratings are pointless, 12V ratings are what you should use since that is more likely the voltage you're amp gets at full tilt. besides, newer hifonics are overrated and don't sustain rated power. the old school amps were a different story. prove it to yourself with a DMM and test tones. you'll be surprised (and disappointed)</p><p></p><p>1kW+ power ratings at 14.4V are not attainable in 95% of vehicles. the investment in the electrical system to support that much current with ZERO voltage drop along the wire is unrealistic.</p><p></p><p>the box doesn't vibrate near as much as the entire vehicle. the box surface barely moves but mere millimeters. the entire car moves more than a foot with many more g's than the sub could. <strong>no amp has ever failed because of box vibrations</strong>. many fail because the box moves and stresses the wire connections (when not bolted down), very few are from a defect in the amp, and the others fail from operator error. avoid mounting amps to boxes. accessing the spare tire alone is the best reason. plus, it's nice being able to remove the sub(s) for hauling stuff around. you simply disconnect speaker wire and pull the box out. when the amp is connected it's a much more tedious process. i've seen a lot of amp failures from box mounting simply due to wire stress when the box moved. in 20 years i've seen lots of problems with amps mounted to boxes, but never because of "vibrations".</p><p></p><p>i'm an Electrical Engineer and Acoustics Engineer. i don't need to search on the interweb for something i can design.</p><p></p><p>your issue here (and in other posts) is that you are regurgitating information without actually understanding it. you get lucky once in a while with your advice, but it's hit and miss. until you actually understand what is happening, you'll continue to offer incorrect advice without knowing it. i'm glad you're trying to help, but take time to listen to your elders.</p><p></p><p>the OP will have to decide what he can afford, and that is the best he'll get.</p><p></p><p>OP: sorry this thread turned into back-and-forth banter. i prefer to stick to answers but i cannot let incorrect information float. hopefully you at least learned something in our rabble rabble rabble.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7421554, member: 576029"] you've never seen someone give that much power to that sub. you've only heard people say they've done it because they think the numbers on their amp are attainable. if the sub could handle a true RMS, the manufacturer would state that in their ratings. their ratings of wattage are based on the thermal handling of the voice coil assembly and the current rating of the voice coil. exceed either and the sub fails. the manufacturer knows more about their products than anyone else, and their ratings are determined through experimentation and engineering. can the sub handle a short musical peak of 1200W RMS? maybe, if mechanical limits are not exceeded. can it handle sustained 1200W RMS? no. even a short duration can melt the lamination on the voice coil winding causing instant failure. you're hifonics is not going to make rated power except on a test bench with a high-current regulated supply - and for about a second. on an OEM alt, you won't get a good amp rated at 14.4V to make rated power - ever. as you increase power output you increase current draw which will cause voltage drop. 14.4V ratings are pointless, 12V ratings are what you should use since that is more likely the voltage you're amp gets at full tilt. besides, newer hifonics are overrated and don't sustain rated power. the old school amps were a different story. prove it to yourself with a DMM and test tones. you'll be surprised (and disappointed) 1kW+ power ratings at 14.4V are not attainable in 95% of vehicles. the investment in the electrical system to support that much current with ZERO voltage drop along the wire is unrealistic. the box doesn't vibrate near as much as the entire vehicle. the box surface barely moves but mere millimeters. the entire car moves more than a foot with many more g's than the sub could. [B]no amp has ever failed because of box vibrations[/B]. many fail because the box moves and stresses the wire connections (when not bolted down), very few are from a defect in the amp, and the others fail from operator error. avoid mounting amps to boxes. accessing the spare tire alone is the best reason. plus, it's nice being able to remove the sub(s) for hauling stuff around. you simply disconnect speaker wire and pull the box out. when the amp is connected it's a much more tedious process. i've seen a lot of amp failures from box mounting simply due to wire stress when the box moved. in 20 years i've seen lots of problems with amps mounted to boxes, but never because of "vibrations". i'm an Electrical Engineer and Acoustics Engineer. i don't need to search on the interweb for something i can design. your issue here (and in other posts) is that you are regurgitating information without actually understanding it. you get lucky once in a while with your advice, but it's hit and miss. until you actually understand what is happening, you'll continue to offer incorrect advice without knowing it. i'm glad you're trying to help, but take time to listen to your elders. the OP will have to decide what he can afford, and that is the best he'll get. OP: sorry this thread turned into back-and-forth banter. i prefer to stick to answers but i cannot let incorrect information float. hopefully you at least learned something in our rabble rabble rabble. [/QUOTE]
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