Menu
Forum
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Car Audio Discussion
General Car Audio
Car Audio Build Logs
Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Classifieds
Car Audio Wanted
Classifieds Member Feedback
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Join
Test
Forum
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
Search
Search titles only
Search titles only
What's new
New posts
Live Activity
Search forums
Members
Registered members
Classifieds Member Feedback
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
please help with new audio installation
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7421437" data-attributes="member: 576029"><p>Dude, i'm not going to let that post go...</p><p></p><p></p><p>1. you referenced an sub rated for 600W RMS. giving it 1200W RMS will destroy the sub. your referencing people that aren't actually giving the sub as much power as they think they are. don't plan on giving a sub more than it's RMS rating on a regular basis. some extra dynamic power available is nice to prevent clipping, but speakers are blow from too much power, never from too little power.</p><p></p><p>2. the 6x9's will likely overpower the entire factory speaker system. it's a hatch, they are in the listening space about 6 feet from you and you have glass to reinforce the sound field. they will be very noticeable and everything will seem to come from behind you. that is what we try to avoid, which is why they are not recommended. plus, they are xplod speakers, so they don't sound good anyway.</p><p></p><p>3. a 5 channel amp will have low power on the sub channel (in his price range). you won't get near 1200W bridged in the price range, which is why you want a dedicated Class D sub amp. and for that much power, a 1 ohm load (dual 2 ohm sub) and 1 ohm stable monoblock will be the least expensive option.</p><p></p><p>4. subs don't care what the amplifier class is. we've been using Class A/B for over 40 years, to plenty of subs. Class D is a more recent addition to the amplifier line-up. the class simply relates to how the positive and negative rail transistors are switched. Class D is more efficient and higher distortion isn't audible in most sub setups.</p><p></p><p>5. the amplifier is not damaged from "high vibrations". the box shouldn't flex that much anyway. the vehicle encounters much worse vibrations on every drive you take from the road. we don't mount amps to boxes because of the reasons i mentioned (theft and spare tire access).</p><p></p><p>6. he simply needs a LOC on one pair of full range speakers. David Navone offers a model with an auto turn-on. the lack of a remote turn on is more of a concern. but modern amps have high level inputs and some even offer auto turn-on so no external LOC is needed. when integrating with factory, look for high level inputs to minimize the number of external pieces you need.</p><p></p><p>4.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7421437, member: 576029"] Dude, i'm not going to let that post go... 1. you referenced an sub rated for 600W RMS. giving it 1200W RMS will destroy the sub. your referencing people that aren't actually giving the sub as much power as they think they are. don't plan on giving a sub more than it's RMS rating on a regular basis. some extra dynamic power available is nice to prevent clipping, but speakers are blow from too much power, never from too little power. 2. the 6x9's will likely overpower the entire factory speaker system. it's a hatch, they are in the listening space about 6 feet from you and you have glass to reinforce the sound field. they will be very noticeable and everything will seem to come from behind you. that is what we try to avoid, which is why they are not recommended. plus, they are xplod speakers, so they don't sound good anyway. 3. a 5 channel amp will have low power on the sub channel (in his price range). you won't get near 1200W bridged in the price range, which is why you want a dedicated Class D sub amp. and for that much power, a 1 ohm load (dual 2 ohm sub) and 1 ohm stable monoblock will be the least expensive option. 4. subs don't care what the amplifier class is. we've been using Class A/B for over 40 years, to plenty of subs. Class D is a more recent addition to the amplifier line-up. the class simply relates to how the positive and negative rail transistors are switched. Class D is more efficient and higher distortion isn't audible in most sub setups. 5. the amplifier is not damaged from "high vibrations". the box shouldn't flex that much anyway. the vehicle encounters much worse vibrations on every drive you take from the road. we don't mount amps to boxes because of the reasons i mentioned (theft and spare tire access). 6. he simply needs a LOC on one pair of full range speakers. David Navone offers a model with an auto turn-on. the lack of a remote turn on is more of a concern. but modern amps have high level inputs and some even offer auto turn-on so no external LOC is needed. when integrating with factory, look for high level inputs to minimize the number of external pieces you need. 4. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
please help with new audio installation
Top
Menu
Home
Refresh