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Pitfalls of replacing midbass driver in passive setup
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<blockquote data-quote="mat3833" data-source="post: 8812061" data-attributes="member: 587645"><p>I've swapped midbass drivers a few times using passive crossovers. The only thing to really know is make sure to match the Ohm load of the original, and make sure the response graph is clean up to the crossover point in the passive unit. </p><p></p><p>Passive crossovers are really simple, and swapping drivers is even simpler. Just make sure your midbass can play up to the crossover point, and make sure you keep the sensitivity at or above where the original driver was and you will be fine. In your case not alot of 6.5" drivers are ment to play up where a 4" driver will. I bet your crossover point is around 3500 or 4k, and if that's the case you are kinda SOL for finding a cheap-ish driver that will play that high and sound decent. </p><p></p><p>Off the top of my head the Hertz ML 1650.3 will do it, but they are quite expensive. </p><p></p><p>Matt</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="mat3833, post: 8812061, member: 587645"] I've swapped midbass drivers a few times using passive crossovers. The only thing to really know is make sure to match the Ohm load of the original, and make sure the response graph is clean up to the crossover point in the passive unit. Passive crossovers are really simple, and swapping drivers is even simpler. Just make sure your midbass can play up to the crossover point, and make sure you keep the sensitivity at or above where the original driver was and you will be fine. In your case not alot of 6.5" drivers are ment to play up where a 4" driver will. I bet your crossover point is around 3500 or 4k, and if that's the case you are kinda SOL for finding a cheap-ish driver that will play that high and sound decent. Off the top of my head the Hertz ML 1650.3 will do it, but they are quite expensive. Matt [/QUOTE]
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Pitfalls of replacing midbass driver in passive setup
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