One 12 or two 10's.

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

A capacitor is not cheaper and won't really do you any good. It would be a big waste of money
The big 3 is upgrading the wire that goes from your battery negative to ground, your battery positive to alternator, and your engine block to ground. Just add on 0 guage wiring to these spots and you'll be good to go.

You'll be buying a giant paperweight if you buy that capacitor.

Sorry, it has been awhile since I was on this site (or reading/talking about car audio in that case). Pretty simple and cheap? It would stop everything from dimming? thanks again guys! I am about to order the SDC2.5 10's.. only $219.30 shipped!!!

 

[IonRL205 10+ year member]

Sorry, it has been awhile since I was on this site (or reading/talking about car audio in that case). Pretty simple and cheap? It would stop everything from dimming? thanks again guys! I am about to order the SDC2.5 10's.. only $219.30 shipped!!!

Well you really shouldn't be dimming from only 1200 watts, unless your alternator is just really really small.

And the difficulty on it varies by where the positioning of the wires are. Some cars are easy to do, others are a PITA, but it's worth it in the end.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The big three upgrade tutorial..one of many to look at/watch to get the info neededhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p82xRzCr-lc

 

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

Well you really shouldn't be dimming from only 1200 watts, unless your alternator is just really really small.
And the difficulty on it varies by where the positioning of the wires are. Some cars are easy to do, others are a PITA, but it's worth it in the end.

Well these 10's plus a speaker amp.

My battery is in my trunk =(....

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

The big 3 can still be done,the run of your +/- main run will be a bit longer for that,but you have the option to get a nice large AGM batt for all your supply needs, Like Kinetick/Stinger/xs/Dekas ect/Orileys super starts agm is what I am using atm(2 with the big three done on ea and 255 amp alt)warranty are 3yrs free replacement, and 4yr prorated afterwards..Mine were $169 ea.You should be able to find the big 3 tutorial/info on your vehicle on you tube somewhere/easiest way to do with little issues as possible to run/do.

 

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

The big 3 can still be done,the run of your +/- main run will be a bit longer for that,but you have the option to get a nice large AGM batt for all your supply needs, Like Kinetick/Stinger/xs/Dekas ect/Orileys super starts agm is what I am using atm(2 with the big three done on ea and 255 amp alt)warranty are 3yrs free replacement, and 4yr prorated afterwards..Mine were $169 ea.You should be able to find the big 3 tutorial/info on your vehicle on you tube somewhere/easiest way to do with little issues as possible to run/do.

Okay, thank you. I will look around a bit. I just wish it wasn't in the trunk!! I am ordering stuff now.

Thanks again!

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Okay, thank you. I will look around a bit. I just wish it wasn't in the trunk!! How much is 0 gauge and where can I buy some?Thanks

Being in the trunk, sounds like you may need approx 17ft runs/2/one for the poss,one for the block ground..last ground can be done off the rear at the frame/rearend even.I use Cadence,and have had no issues thus far..may be a Black Fri sale on it?I buy mine here-

Audio Savings | Cadence 0G100-BLUE 0 AWG Gauge 17 Feet Car Amp Power Wire Cool Cable Technology

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Well these 10's plus a speaker amp. My battery is in my trunk =(....

I will place a bet that your car battery is weak. I would replace the standard "starting battery" with the biggest deep cycle AGM that will fit. Run 2 ga wiring to the alt, engine ground and batt ground, then you can use 4ga (or 2ga, if the amp accepts it) at the amp power and ground. If your battery i`s in the trunk, run the amp pos and ground directly to it for the best connections....do the above and you will be golden.

 

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

Being in the trunk, sounds like you may need approx 17ft runs/2/one for the poss,one for the block ground..last ground can be done off the rear at the frame/rearend even.I use Cadence,and have had no issues thus far..may be a Black Fri sale on it?I buy mine here-Audio Savings | Cadence 0G100-BLUE 0 AWG Gauge 17 Feet Car Amp Power Wire Cool Cable Technology

Thanks. I watched that tutorial and he had a bunch of adapters. Would I be able to get those at a local electrical store? Or do I need to find somewhere online.

Probably not a chance in hell that my electrical system in my 2000 bmw 528 could handle kenwood 308 double din deck, 10 total speakers, 740w 4 channel speaker amp, two sdc2.5 10s and a 1200ad amp? Running that 0 gauge wire would be a HUGE project in that car.. I think a shop would have to do it for me.

 

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

I will place a bet that your car battery is weak. I would replace the standard "starting battery" with the biggest deep cycle AGM that will fit. Run 2 ga wiring to the alt, engine ground and batt ground, then you can use 4ga (or 2ga, if the amp accepts it) at the amp power and ground. If your battery i`s in the trunk, run the amp pos and ground directly to it for the best connections....do the above and you will be golden.

Yeah, I am just not very good at stuff like this. I will have to have a friend or a shop do it. I don't feel like screwing anything up and I just ain't that confident in myself to play with my cars electrical system.

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

Yeah, I am just not very good at stuff like this. I will have to have a friend or a shop do it. I don't feel like screwing anything up and I just ain't that confident in myself to play with my cars electrical system.

all the more reason to upgrade your electrical system to handle the added load of an upgraded sound system...a good 1200w+ amp is going to draw 100+ amps at times above what your car is designed to handle....to avoid potential and given problems (headlight dimming to amp failure), the advised upgrades are a must.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Orileys/Autozone/Home Depot/Welding supply store s have the Copper Ring Terminals easiest to use/crimp/vise/or crimp and punch is what I do,and easy.You only need 2 main wires to the trunk,can be ran underneath the vehicle and secured easily enough, and drill couple holes for entry,and seal with silicone,without running throughout the enterior of the vehicle.Wire can be wrapped in split loom for added protection as well as having the thick jacket around it already.Another option to be considered to do yourself, and save more funds towards the audio needs rather than paying extra funds for labor of having it done

 

[quackhead 10+ year member]

ps..a capacitor is a useless tool, much like a band-aid on a severed member that serves no purpose without the benefits of added capacitance found in a suitable AGM deep cycle battery...I know they are expensive....but well worth it.

 

[Gradyj14 10+ year member]

My battery says 12v 90ah 720a on it. Not exactly sure what that means in terms for me and my system.

How much would a good battery for my system cost me? Would it alone be enough of a change or do I have to do the big 3 also or a capacitor be good enough with the battery?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My battery says 12v 90ah 720a on it. Not exactly sure what that means in terms for me and my system. How much would a good battery for my system cost me? Would it alone be enough of a change or do I have to do the big 3 also or a capacitor be good enough with the battery?

Try the big three first,and run what you have, and if you are still needing more power(assuming you may) get a large AGM when you get a chance.You can google up info for different types of batts and theyre applications ect/Free info,Yet, An Agm batt is what will be needed in your case to keep up with the demand.A good one that will fit your budget, and your needs.If you could fit a Kinetick 2000, or larger and have the funds for it now, Id get it and run it,or budget wise/as I have done, that Orileys Super Start Agm with no issues for my needs, and Im running approx 800x2 true rms for subs, and 150 x2 for mids and highs along with approx 50-75x4 on tweets and rear fill