Official CarAudio.com Big 3 Thread

i added a 1/0 groud cable to the chasis and a 4 gauge to the alt so and my lights dim like hell. i have 2 fosgate 12 and 2 ppi 2250 one runs my 6 1/2 and 5 1/2 front stage componets and the other power the 12's. and the only cable the i haven't added was the ground to the engine block. do u guys think that i need a cap also.

 
i added a 1/0 groud cable to the chasis and a 4 gauge to the alt so and my lights dim like hell. i have 2 fosgate 12 and 2 ppi 2250 one runs my 6 1/2 and 5 1/2 front stage componets and the other power the 12's. and the only cable the i haven't added was the ground to the engine block. do u guys think that i need a cap also.
Not too many people are fans of caps around here - especially not for daily use.

I think that the consensus is that they are a waste of money because they do not work. Also, there is a school of thought that they are just another burden on your electrical system.

I think that even those who advocate them would say that they are not a cure for a less than adequate electrical system.

If you want some in depth reading, do a search for "Richard Clark" on here. You will find a thread that discussed caps at length.

 
yea i never used a cap in my life but my lights dim so much that i cant even play my music at night cause i look like a disco ball. i guess i need to add a 1/0 to my alt and engine block.

 
alright i read many of the pages in this thread, but still have some questions, so im going to be adding this wiring to my wires that is already there? so i would get a battery terminal where i can have multiple wires coming out of it one for my stock wiring and the second of the 0/1 gauge wiring for the big three?

 
Was just wondering if it really makes sense to use anything larger than 6 gauge from B+ to alt when the brush wires inside the alternator are so tiny...

 
I am getting ready to upgrade my alternator to a high output alt and also do the big 3.

I have a few questions:

1. My factory wiring from the battery negative has 2 wires, 1 to the frame and 1 to the engine block. Should I upgrade both?

2. If I should upgrade both, is it still necessary to add a frame to engine block wire for the big 3?

3. The high output alt manufacturer recommends adding a new wire from the alt case (negative) to the frame. Is this necessary since I am already doing the big 3?

Thanks for any help.

 
I am getting ready to upgrade my alternator to a high output alt and also do the big 3.
I have a few questions:

1. My factory wiring from the battery negative has 2 wires, 1 to the frame and 1 to the engine block. Should I upgrade both?

2. If I should upgrade both, is it still necessary to add a frame to engine block wire for the big 3?

3. The high output alt manufacturer recommends adding a new wire from the alt case (negative) to the frame. Is this necessary since I am already doing the big 3?

Thanks for any help.
it doesnt hurt to have more wires.......

 
Ok just gonna run down the (planned) setup of my car...someone feel free to point out an error or simply say no it wont be enough haha.

4g power wire to 800RMS sub amp split to 150rmsx2 speaker amp

4g for the big 3

2farad cap

ALT is rated 85-90amps

8g speaker wire and grounds for cap and both amps

will i truly be pulling what my amps are rated for or coming up way short?

ill prob put it in anyways but im sure an Optima yellow top will help, correct?

 
i had a question. OK for the big 3 can i use power wire also for ground.
power and ground wire is the same exact thing //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

copper is copper is copper as long as it is the same AWG size

 
Just got a new car so I'm doing this all over. Only this time I am having a bit of a problem. On this car (04 Mazda RX-8) My line runs from the alternator to the main fuse on the underhood fuse block then to the (+) battery terminal. So I have 2 different runs for this. Ok, no big deal. I have all the wire in place and I'm ready to button everything back up and when I re-connect the (-) terminal to the battery the main fuse that I just spoke of blows and sparks jump from the terminal. Anybody have any advice or ideas?

 
i wish this had pictures on page 1.
its easy if you just get under your hood and look. it becomes pretty obvious. big single wire that goes from your alternator to your battery (or main under hood fuse block), big wire that goes from negative battery terminal to the chassis, and big wire (or braided strap) that goes from the motor( or intake manifold) to chassis. If you don't under stand this, you probably shouldn't be under the hood of your car.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif

 
its easy if you just get under your hood and look. it becomes pretty obvious. big single wire that goes from your alternator to your battery (or main under hood fuse block), big wire that goes from negative battery terminal to the chassis, and big wire (or braided strap) that goes from the motor( or intake manifold) to chassis. If you don't under stand this, you probably shouldn't be under the hood of your car.//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif
x9

 
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