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newbie speaker install help please
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8638434" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>[quote name='cparker2591'][USER=650438]@Jeffdachef[/USER] So what size fuse do i need by the battery under the hood? if i have a total of 3800 rms wattage, divided by 12 volts or so i get 316 amps....add in the class D efficiency of say 75% and i get roughly 395 amps. so what i ordered is a 400 amp ANL fuse holder and fuse. does this sound right? one amp calls for a 300 amp fuse and my other has 3 25amp fuses so 375 would be spot on but i couldnt find a 375 amp fuse. i will be running 2/0 wire which can do 450 amps safely. also do you prefer circuit breakers for high power systems or are fuses still fine.</p></blockquote><p></p><p>you fuse for the wire not the current pull, the fuse is there to protect the wire so look on the wire&#39;s max amperage at x amount of length and fuse for that. </p><p></p><p>FYI whatever amperage calculations you have, throw that sh*t in the trash. You&#39;ll never see anywhere near half that current pull in real world numbers. As in when you actually clamp test the amp, you&#39;ll have to deal with impedance rise and on music, its even less current pulled so literally every amperage calculation you are doing now is completely irrelevant, so just stop with that plz.... Whatever stuff you read its all on paper calculations and theories however real world tests says otherwise because there are too many other factors you never factor in when you do theories on paper.</p><p></p><p>For an example if you have a 3500 rms, amp, you&#39;ll literally only clamp 1700 watts out of it wired to 1 ohm with impedance rising to 2.4 ohms. Thats on a pure 0 db sine wave test tone. However on music, the bass information is much less than 0 db sine waves, so your actual power output is even less than that, coupled by a lot of pauses between basslines means you actual real world current draw will literally be less than 150 amps constant for your current setup.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8638434, member: 650438"] [quote name='cparker2591'][USER=650438]@Jeffdachef[/USER] So what size fuse do i need by the battery under the hood? if i have a total of 3800 rms wattage, divided by 12 volts or so i get 316 amps....add in the class D efficiency of say 75% and i get roughly 395 amps. so what i ordered is a 400 amp ANL fuse holder and fuse. does this sound right? one amp calls for a 300 amp fuse and my other has 3 25amp fuses so 375 would be spot on but i couldnt find a 375 amp fuse. i will be running 2/0 wire which can do 450 amps safely. also do you prefer circuit breakers for high power systems or are fuses still fine.[/QUOTE] you fuse for the wire not the current pull, the fuse is there to protect the wire so look on the wire's max amperage at x amount of length and fuse for that. FYI whatever amperage calculations you have, throw that sh*t in the trash. You'll never see anywhere near half that current pull in real world numbers. As in when you actually clamp test the amp, you'll have to deal with impedance rise and on music, its even less current pulled so literally every amperage calculation you are doing now is completely irrelevant, so just stop with that plz.... Whatever stuff you read its all on paper calculations and theories however real world tests says otherwise because there are too many other factors you never factor in when you do theories on paper. For an example if you have a 3500 rms, amp, you'll literally only clamp 1700 watts out of it wired to 1 ohm with impedance rising to 2.4 ohms. Thats on a pure 0 db sine wave test tone. However on music, the bass information is much less than 0 db sine waves, so your actual power output is even less than that, coupled by a lot of pauses between basslines means you actual real world current draw will literally be less than 150 amps constant for your current setup. [/QUOTE]
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