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<blockquote data-quote="grandam888" data-source="post: 7368287" data-attributes="member: 628519"><p>spl stands for sound pressure level(loudness in DB), and rms is basically the maximum wattage the amp can put out before producing a clipped signal. rms is really the only usable power from an amplifier. so ignore ALL max wattage ratings as if they do not exist. they are marketing gimmicks</p><p></p><p>as far as the ssd 12 the dual 1 and 2 are voice coils options referring to the impedance of the voice coils. this is important as you want to be sure your amp can run the desired wattage @ the impedance of the sub.(like a dual 2 can be ran @ 4 ohms, and 1 ohm, so you would buy an amp that puts out the desired power @ 1 ohm or 4) and cooling option allow for better cooling of the voice coils and is considered an upgrade. with the cooling options you can run higher rms wattage to the sub as the voice will run cooler.this option isn't "needed" but is def. recommended.</p><p></p><p>as far as the amperage of the stock alternator, i generally use auto zone.com to find the stock replacement, and it usually says what amperage it is. yours a 100 amp alternator which is decent, but you be pulling near that amperage @ 1000 watts. you may be fine with big three and extra battery.</p><p></p><p>big three is upgrading the wires running from alternator to battery, battery to ground, and engine black to battery. do this in 0 gauge or larger wire. most cars come with 4 gauge or smaller wiring in those areas(some rigged my jeep with a 12 gauge wire as the ground). personally i ran 3/0 wire on mine as i got it for free, but 0 gauge will be fine.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="grandam888, post: 7368287, member: 628519"] spl stands for sound pressure level(loudness in DB), and rms is basically the maximum wattage the amp can put out before producing a clipped signal. rms is really the only usable power from an amplifier. so ignore ALL max wattage ratings as if they do not exist. they are marketing gimmicks as far as the ssd 12 the dual 1 and 2 are voice coils options referring to the impedance of the voice coils. this is important as you want to be sure your amp can run the desired wattage @ the impedance of the sub.(like a dual 2 can be ran @ 4 ohms, and 1 ohm, so you would buy an amp that puts out the desired power @ 1 ohm or 4) and cooling option allow for better cooling of the voice coils and is considered an upgrade. with the cooling options you can run higher rms wattage to the sub as the voice will run cooler.this option isn't "needed" but is def. recommended. as far as the amperage of the stock alternator, i generally use auto zone.com to find the stock replacement, and it usually says what amperage it is. yours a 100 amp alternator which is decent, but you be pulling near that amperage @ 1000 watts. you may be fine with big three and extra battery. big three is upgrading the wires running from alternator to battery, battery to ground, and engine black to battery. do this in 0 gauge or larger wire. most cars come with 4 gauge or smaller wiring in those areas(some rigged my jeep with a 12 gauge wire as the ground). personally i ran 3/0 wire on mine as i got it for free, but 0 gauge will be fine. [/QUOTE]
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