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newbie here - hope u can help
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<blockquote data-quote="jsloan10" data-source="post: 933080" data-attributes="member: 560397"><p>This is the full technical guide to repair the problem-</p><p></p><p>Replace the words processor and equalizer with head unit as this is the cause of the thump.</p><p></p><p>2.2 My system "pops" when I turn it off. What is happening and how</p><p></p><p>can I get rid of it? [JD]</p><p></p><p>=====================================================================</p><p></p><p>This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal</p><p></p><p>processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path,</p><p></p><p>which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers.</p><p></p><p>Usually this can be solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the</p><p></p><p>processor. This allows the processor to stay powered on for a short</p><p></p><p>time after the amplifiers have powered down, thus preventing the pop.</p><p></p><p>Many components sold today (such as crossovers, equalizers, etc) have</p><p></p><p>delays built-in. Read your manual to see if it is possible to set this</p><p></p><p>delay on your piece of equipment or be sure to look for this feature</p><p></p><p>during your next car audio purchase.</p><p></p><p>If your processor does not have this feature, you can build your own</p><p></p><p>delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in</p><p></p><p>series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side towards the EQ.</p><p></p><p>Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap connects to</p><p></p><p>the striped (processor) side of the diode, the (-) side of the cap goes</p><p></p><p>to ground (not the radio or EQ chassis - connect to the car chassis).</p><p></p><p>Experimenting with the cap value will give you the right amount of delay</p><p></p><p>before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it too long, just long enough to</p><p></p><p>make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. 220 - 1000 uF is</p><p></p><p>about right, and make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or</p><p></p><p>higher. Also keep in mind that the diode will introduce a 0.7V drop on</p><p></p><p>the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the</p><p></p><p>rest of the system.</p><p></p><p>Edit- in the event of a turn on pop/thump the amplifier turns on before the head units rca's turn on. When the the head units RCA's energize the amp will pop/thump the speakers this is why most amps have a soft turn on curcuit that delays powerup to allow the headunits to turn on first, If your amplifier is turning on before the RCA's on the head units turn on then you need to delay the remote turn on leads signal.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="jsloan10, post: 933080, member: 560397"] This is the full technical guide to repair the problem- Replace the words processor and equalizer with head unit as this is the cause of the thump. 2.2 My system "pops" when I turn it off. What is happening and how can I get rid of it? [JD] ===================================================================== This kind of problem is often caused by transients in the signal processor as it powers down finding their way into the signal path, which the amplifier then transmits to the speakers. Usually this can be solved by adding a little turn-off delay to the processor. This allows the processor to stay powered on for a short time after the amplifiers have powered down, thus preventing the pop. Many components sold today (such as crossovers, equalizers, etc) have delays built-in. Read your manual to see if it is possible to set this delay on your piece of equipment or be sure to look for this feature during your next car audio purchase. If your processor does not have this feature, you can build your own delay circuit with a diode and a capacitor. Add a 1N4004 diode in series with the processor's turn-on lead, striped side towards the EQ. Then add a capacitor in parallel, the (+) side of the cap connects to the striped (processor) side of the diode, the (-) side of the cap goes to ground (not the radio or EQ chassis - connect to the car chassis). Experimenting with the cap value will give you the right amount of delay before the EQ shuts off. You don't want it too long, just long enough to make sure the amp is off before the EQ powers down. 220 - 1000 uF is about right, and make sure the cap is a polarized electrolytic, 16V or higher. Also keep in mind that the diode will introduce a 0.7V drop on the remote wire, which can cause the processor to power down before the rest of the system. Edit- in the event of a turn on pop/thump the amplifier turns on before the head units rca's turn on. When the the head units RCA's energize the amp will pop/thump the speakers this is why most amps have a soft turn on curcuit that delays powerup to allow the headunits to turn on first, If your amplifier is turning on before the RCA's on the head units turn on then you need to delay the remote turn on leads signal. [/QUOTE]
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