New to the forum,

RedlineAccord
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
So be nice... please? Hah well anyways, whats goin on? I drive a 2001 Accord coupe and I've just recently been learning the ways of the car audio bass-head. I have a decent knowledge of car audio but nowhere near any of the experts I'm sure I'll find on these forums. Right now I'm running a Sony Xplod headunit (yes, shut up, it was my first headunit 2 years ago, and its still working so I haven't had reason to replace it with Alpine or Pioneer), Pioneer 4-way interior speakers powered by a Pioneer Premier 4-channel amplifier, and a 15" Rockford Fosgate T1 in a 2.75 cu. ft. ported box (not sure what its tuned to) powered by a P4002 Rockford Amp (bridged, rated at 580 rms). All of this is being run through 4ga power wire from the battery to a 1.5 farad capacitor, and a stock electrical system (not even the big 3, ugh, gotta change that).

So... a few questions for anyone who could please lend some help...

-I know the 15" T1 could take more power than the 600 rms that Rockford rated it at, I'm looking for a new amp for a VERY reasonable price with more power than the P4002 I have right now, what should I look at??

-I'm running a PS2 and 7" LCD screen along with the system, and my lights are dimming slightly, and the screen dims when I have the PS2 and system all running at once. I'd like a new battery, but what should I look at? Someone said I should consider Kinetik over Optima. Plus are there any other things I can do to help keep the voltage up?

-The T1 I'm running hits pretty hard compared to what I've had in the past, and its shaking everything to pieces. I've laid dynamat extreme and original all over the trunk, but not the inside of the car. Would it be worth finishing the job, and doing the whole interior? What differences would I hear?

Thanks ahead of time to anyone who could answer ANY of these questions for me. I appreciate it a lot.

 
look to hifonics for cheap class d power.. theyre pretty solid for the price. ebay usually has the best prices. and yeah you can buy new on ebay in case you didnt know.. look for a bxi1206d or whatever its called.. the 1200 rms model... well that is if you have a dual 2 ohm sub. if not please let us know.

as far as electrical.. do the big 3.. you shoudl be able to find info int he electrical section of the forum..

 
Cool, thanks. I was leaning towards Hifonics but I wanted more opinions. I've heard they are overrated though (which isnt a big deal, its still not expensive even for the 1200 rms amp, even if it puts out only 1000 or whatever it does). Is that true?

 
Nice, man I wish I could hear it with another 400 watts rms pumping to that thing. I can't wait to get a new amp for it. I heard it performs so much better under 800-1000 watts rms. The thing already impresses most people around where I am. I guess people are just too used to the usual best buy/circuit city crap and the lower Rockford P1's and stuff like that.

 
...lights are dimming slightly... I'd like a new battery, but what should I look at? Someone said I should consider Kinetik over Optima. Plus are there any other things I can do to help keep the voltage up?
Do the big 3. Chances are if you are only getting small amounts of dimming, the big three will fix it. For comparisons sake, grab a DMM and see what kind of drops you are getting before and after the upgrade.

I've laid dynamat extreme and original all over the trunk, but not the inside of the car. Would it be worth finishing the job, and doing the whole interior? What differences would I hear?
It will definitely help with your rattles. Be warned sound deadening is a long and arduous processes. You will have the best results if you listen and find the sources of noise/rattles. Deaden those areas and listen again. Also, deadening your doors will definitely help your SQ and midbass output. Finally, I would check out the sound deadening showdown before you go buy more Dynamat.

 
Redline Performance is the name of my car club a few of my buddies and I have created in Central Jersey. Nothing crazy done to my accord really, but it's getting there.

 
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/yumyum.gif.0556df42231b304b9c995aefd13928a8.gif 15''t1:yumyum: latter on you should redo that box (rf power box)//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif wellcome to the site!
 
Thanks for the welcome, I'll be back here a LOT thats for sure. lol

As for the RF Power box... I made the box that Rockford Fosgate suggested in the manual that came with the sub, the 2.75 cu. ft. ported box with the two 4" diam. 16" long ports. I think its tuned around 32 or 35 hz or something like that. All i know is that it hits low notes like I've never heard before. I love it. How much of a difference is that RF Power box? I wonder what I'd be able to hit on the mic on a single 15 T1 with the right power and box...

 
Thanks for the welcome, I'll be back here a LOT thats for sure. lol
As for the RF Power box... I made the box that Rockford Fosgate suggested in the manual that came with the sub, the 2.75 cu. ft. ported box with the two 4" diam. 16" long ports. I think its tuned around 32 or 35 hz or something like that. All i know is that it hits low notes like I've never heard before. I love it. How much of a difference is that RF Power box? I wonder what I'd be able to hit on the mic on a single 15 T1 with the right power and box...
welcome and be sure to check out the other discussion areas //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

prolly 140 db's or so

 
Mmmm 140+ dB's... that'd be sweet. But yea, I'll probably repost these questions in their respective areas just to get a more clearcut answer from people. This was just more of a, hi im the new guy kind of thread.

 
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RedlineAccord

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