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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8716184" data-attributes="member: 679555">Some reference pages:[URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/subwoofers/sld-series/[/URL][URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-JkmI8VGGJnN/p_13698617/JL-Audio-RD1000-1.html[/URL][URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]http://precisionpower.com/product/ice5000-1d/[/URL][URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575T1650/Rockford-Fosgate-T1650.html[/URL][URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hbf8TcsnlkI/p_13698361/JL-Audio-JD400-4.html[/URL][URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-lGkwE1wD5wL/p_613DDX9905/Kenwood-Excelon-DDX9905S.html[/URL]Assuming you have the 2ohm dvc versions and not the 4ohm dvc versions, yes. Ideally the amp would be equal or slightly higher power than the subwoofers but 1000 is 83% of 1200 which is close enough to sound good. Some subwoofers don&#039;t like to be under-powered but that&#039;s a minor difference that shouldn&#039;t matter. I would leave the PPI out of it. I don&#039;t trust their quality very much and their ratings are always exaggerated. I guess if you have to run 4ohms then that might reluctantly be your best option, even then I might use the JL or get a different amp.I would see how it sounds before going the EQ or crossover route. I feel like it&#039;s good to be familiar with the sound and the limitations of your HU before you introduce them anyways. I usually build and buy my systems in chunks which helps me know how much the new stuff is actually helping or if I&#039;ll actually need it.The t1650 are 75W rms @ 4 ohms, so wiring them together in parallel would give each 50w RMS per channel. If you intended to bridge the channels and wire them parallel that would be a 1 ohm load on each channel so that&#039;s not good. If you bridge them and run series you&#039;re getting less power as well. Just stick with one per channel, it&#039;s perfectly matched 75w RMS and 75w RMS so there&#039;s no reason to complicate the wiring.I&#039;ve never seen any testing on the merits of the 4th, so not gonna waste your time pretending I know the results. Your system sounds pretty small though, I&#039;d say it could go either way as to even needing the big 3 but it of course never hurts.You can and probably should use a dist block for multiple grounds.Good idea on sound deadening, that&#039;s usually the first thing I mention before upgrading full range door speakers to get the most out of them and not be disappointed by the difference. It seems you&#039;ve done a lot of research relative to how much most people start with.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8716184, member: 679555"] Some reference pages: [URL unfurl="true"]https://sundownaudio.com/lv/sa/subwoofers/sld-series/[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-JkmI8VGGJnN/p_13698617/JL-Audio-RD1000-1.html[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]http://precisionpower.com/product/ice5000-1d/[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575T1650/Rockford-Fosgate-T1650.html[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-hbf8TcsnlkI/p_13698361/JL-Audio-JD400-4.html[/URL] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-lGkwE1wD5wL/p_613DDX9905/Kenwood-Excelon-DDX9905S.html[/URL] Assuming you have the 2ohm dvc versions and not the 4ohm dvc versions, yes. Ideally the amp would be equal or slightly higher power than the subwoofers but 1000 is 83% of 1200 which is close enough to sound good. Some subwoofers don't like to be under-powered but that's a minor difference that shouldn't matter. I would leave the PPI out of it. I don't trust their quality very much and their ratings are always exaggerated. I guess if you have to run 4ohms then that might reluctantly be your best option, even then I might use the JL or get a different amp. I would see how it sounds before going the EQ or crossover route. I feel like it's good to be familiar with the sound and the limitations of your HU before you introduce them anyways. I usually build and buy my systems in chunks which helps me know how much the new stuff is actually helping or if I'll actually need it. The t1650 are 75W rms @ 4 ohms, so wiring them together in parallel would give each 50w RMS per channel. If you intended to bridge the channels [B]and [/B]wire them parallel that would be a 1 ohm load on each channel so that's not good. If you bridge them and run series you're getting less power as well. Just stick with one per channel, it's perfectly matched 75w RMS and 75w RMS so there's no reason to complicate the wiring. I've never seen any testing on the merits of the 4th, so not gonna waste your time pretending I know the results. Your system sounds pretty small though, I'd say it could go either way as to even needing the big 3 but it of course never hurts. You can and probably should use a dist block for multiple grounds. Good idea on sound deadening, that's usually the first thing I mention before upgrading full range door speakers to get the most out of them and not be disappointed by the difference. It seems you've done a lot of research relative to how much most people start with. [/QUOTE]

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