New Member here...just needing some advice and or suggestions.

For starters...

I just signed up, so fresh newbie here. I've been browsing threads and post for a little bit though.

Anyways, I'm somewhat new to the whole car audio scene and have been doing research on a setup for my 2000 jeep cherokee xj (SQ setup).

Althought I'm trying to be budget conscious, I don't want to say it is a budget setup....it's more of trying to get the best quality within my means...lol. I understand that the best SQ can only be achieved in a "well engineered" room. I'm looking for something that is obviously more focused on clarity and quality vs just loud. I do not want my whole car shaking...I am 28 years old so I'd say I'm passed those days...BUT I wouldn't mind being able to turn it up every now and then. Def quality over anything else though. Below is a list of what I have and am considering...any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thus far...

Kenwood HU (x792 for now...but wanting bluetooth and USB + audio out at the front)

JL c5 650 comp in front (got these for a good deal locally for 240 brand new...hearing jl's are overrated and overpriced though?)

JBL GTO 5ez amp OR JL XD400.4 (have both but will sell the one I don't use?)

Ive been debating on rear speaker...JBL MS 62 (problem with tweeter location) or Polk MM651UM or Polk MM6501.

As far as the subs...I've been looking into a lot of the 8" subs by ID, Alpine, etc...from my research. Many are suggesting going with a single 10" sub.

Subs I've been considering include...Alpine Type X, Polk SR series, Morel Ultimos

I've been set of going with a 10" sub, but recently came across a great deal on a new 12" Polk SR124 for $150. I've also come across some decent deals on type X's but they are all 12's thus far. Is it worth waiting around on a good deal for a 10" sub. I just hope that the 12 isn't too overbearing...

 
As far as subs go...I would also like to consider the polk MM series, JBL GTO....budget subs I suppose.

I do own a JL 10WO version 3....just felt it couldn't keep up in my opinion (but it was in a ported box). This sub was in my younger brothers vehicle - bmw m3.

 
Unless you're really going to be tight on space my thought is to get the biggest sub that will meet your sound quality needs. You don't need to go with 8s or 10s in that vehicle, and you certainly won't have to compromise on accuracy by choosing a 12.

Don't waste your money on components for the rear speakers. If you must have full range sound back there your passengers will be fine with coaxials. A $100 pair of JBL GTOs will do a great job and let you put that money toward more important aspects of the project.

Don't take any talk about "overpriced" or "overrated" too seriously, especially on the #1 target of those claims: JL Audio. While there are some proven, cheaper alternative brands out there to try, it's your money to spend. You got a killer deal on the C5 components.

I have a JBL GTO1214 12" 4 ohm sub that I bought to try while I was waiting for my MS-BassPro SQ to arrive from backorder status. I put it in a Sound Ordnance vented box. I much prefer the MS-BassPro SQ as it kills the GTO 12 in sound quality, plus it gets fairly loud for being only a 300W package. The GTO and SO box are for sale now, and I have 1 MS-BassPro SQ in stock.

 
Unless you're really going to be tight on space my thought is to get the biggest sub that will meet your sound quality needs. You don't need to go with 8s or 10s in that vehicle, and you certainly won't have to compromise on accuracy by choosing a 12.
Don't waste your money on components for the rear speakers. If you must have full range sound back there your passengers will be fine with coaxials. A $100 pair of JBL GTOs will do a great job and let you put that money toward more important aspects of the project.

Don't take any talk about "overpriced" or "overrated" too seriously, especially on the #1 target of those claims: JL Audio. While there are some proven, cheaper alternative brands out there to try, it's your money to spend. You got a killer deal on the C5 components.

I have a JBL GTO1214 12" 4 ohm sub that I bought to try while I was waiting for my MS-BassPro SQ to arrive from backorder status. I put it in a Sound Ordnance vented box. I much prefer the MS-BassPro SQ as it kills the GTO 12 in sound quality, plus it gets fairly loud for being only a 300W package. The GTO and SO box are for sale now, and I have 1 MS-BassPro SQ in stock.
Finally a vendor that says somethjing that makes sense!!!! I was really about to give up on this site

 
Thanks for the information. Could you PM me a price on the bass pro sq? Now as far as which amp to use....The jbl seems nice because it uses both AB and D...AB for the 4 comp channels and D for the sub. I've heard that is what's optimal. The JL XD400.4 is very compact and about half the size of the jbl...but I will obviously need to get a new amp for the sub. Anyways, it is probably one of those user preference deals at this point....unless someone has some good info on why I should choose one over the other.

I will probably get a decent set of coaxials for the rear like trumpet suggests....I wasn't sure because the cherokees have a sound bar deal right above the rear seats....possibly thought it may make a diff due to the speaker location.

 
One thing I came across trying to decide on the rear coax...between the polk mm651 and mm651um. The UM version has a completely sealed cone or solid....while the other has the traditional opening where the shafts or what not goes to hold the tweeter. Now, I was at my local stereo shop and was told that I would not notice any difference between the 2 speakers.

 
Keep doing research and asking questions, you will learn alot, fast.

Concearning the rear fill, I suppose you've already heard it messes with the front sound stage, which is true. When you set those up, make sure you reduce their volume to a point in which it doesn't come into the front sound stage.

Also, choose good crossover points for the tweets and woofers, unless they are using passive crossovers.

Give the woofers the power they demand, and don't overdrive the tweets.

Also, the tweets should be experiemented with as far as location. Move from dash, to a pillars, to different angles in a pillars.

There is alot involving SQ, but as long as you stay active in the reasearch and keep asking questions you should be able to surprise yourself with how you can get a car system to sound. I just started this not long ago and Ive made alot of progress so far.

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