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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8710295" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>I've encountered that all too often the issues with continuity are linked to cheap connectors. I've moved up to waterproof with silicone seals and it's worked out so far as well as hydraulically crimped butt connectors with heat shrink over them. Both of those are annoying without the right tools, but If you have to do normal hand crimps then bullet connectors with a little conductive grease on the male end and heat shrink as strain relief is pretty reliable. Tricks from working on trailer wiring which will fail if you just look at them the wrong way.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a> (requires or at least highly benefits from terminal crimpers)</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB14C2C/?tag=caraudiocom-20" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB14C2C/?tag=caraudiocom-20</a> (The end of 12v conductivity bullcrap)</p><p></p><p>A dab'll do you on the conductive grease, be very careful with it since it's hard to wash off and it'll bridge connections through a thin film of it, but it works great and seals out the elements too even if there's barely enough of it to see. Soldering is my go-to for adapter to radio harnesses, but for speaker connections I always do plugs to avoid snipping things in the future, plus I hate soldering inside a vehicle.</p><p></p><p>The trick to finding a good quality crimp is that it doesn't have a seam and it's thick. These butt connectors for example are great in any of those sizes, I'd recommend them to anyone. Super thick and the metal will go airtight with the copper strands under hydraulic force without any cracking or deformation around a seam.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072TZX3N8/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL]</p><p></p><p>My experience with loose connectors has caused me to do multiple deep-dives but I think I'm finally seeing the light lol. Tinned copper is also a godsend and the result of another deep dive I did when I was young. Corroded copper makes crappy connections and it's worth the extra cost to never have to look at it again.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8710295, member: 679555"] I've encountered that all too often the issues with continuity are linked to cheap connectors. I've moved up to waterproof with silicone seals and it's worked out so far as well as hydraulically crimped butt connectors with heat shrink over them. Both of those are annoying without the right tools, but If you have to do normal hand crimps then bullet connectors with a little conductive grease on the male end and heat shrink as strain relief is pretty reliable. Tricks from working on trailer wiring which will fail if you just look at them the wrong way. [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014IU2EE2/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] (requires or at least highly benefits from terminal crimpers) [URL]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NB14C2C/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] (The end of 12v conductivity bullcrap) A dab'll do you on the conductive grease, be very careful with it since it's hard to wash off and it'll bridge connections through a thin film of it, but it works great and seals out the elements too even if there's barely enough of it to see. Soldering is my go-to for adapter to radio harnesses, but for speaker connections I always do plugs to avoid snipping things in the future, plus I hate soldering inside a vehicle. The trick to finding a good quality crimp is that it doesn't have a seam and it's thick. These butt connectors for example are great in any of those sizes, I'd recommend them to anyone. Super thick and the metal will go airtight with the copper strands under hydraulic force without any cracking or deformation around a seam. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072TZX3N8/?tag=caraudiocom-20[/URL] My experience with loose connectors has caused me to do multiple deep-dives but I think I'm finally seeing the light lol. Tinned copper is also a godsend and the result of another deep dive I did when I was young. Corroded copper makes crappy connections and it's worth the extra cost to never have to look at it again. [/QUOTE]
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