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<blockquote data-quote="Umbra" data-source="post: 8342588" data-attributes="member: 658055"><p>You're going to wire the HU to the amps via RCA, so the ohm requirement is a moot point, like you've deduced.</p><p></p><p>That's good to hear. Those smaller subs can handle 300W RMS each, so if you wire them to that sub you're giving them 250/600, which is underpowering them, definitely, but it's better than 250/1000.</p><p></p><p>Because they're 2 ohm DVC you can wire each sub to 4 or 1 ohm. You can then wire the pair to , 8, 2, 2, or .5 ohms. .5 is right out, you will blow up the amp. 8 is going to be really, really underpowering them, so 2 is definitely the sweet spot. Ideally you're going to want to run the pair at 2 ohms. This is how you do that:</p><p></p><p><img src="http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p></p><p>You can also run one at 4 ohms if you're short on space, but it's obviously be less output.</p><p></p><p>Given what you're listening to, and because of your space constraints, you'll want a sealed box. Ported has its advantages, but not so much in those genres (excluding dubstep).</p><p></p><p>Kicker gets a bad rap, but their amps are actually pretty respectable. That amp does 30W RMS X 2 @ 4ohms. It's not the 65W your speakers could handle, but it's way better than nothing. I've had great luck with Craigslist, or you could try the <a href="http:////forums/wanting-buy-wtb-car-audio/" target="_blank">Wanting to Buy (WTB) - Car Audio</a> section. If you don't want to buy used or online that Kicker amp should be fine.</p><p></p><p>You don't need a two channel amp for more than two subs. It's mono, so any sub-bass in either the left or right channel will find its way to the subs. All the subs get wired to one channel. As a result, they divide the output amongst themselves.</p><p></p><p>I'd recommend installing what you have. You'll need a wiring harness to connect the HU to the car and a wiring kit to connect the amp to the HU, battery, and chassis.</p><p></p><p>Here's Knuconceptz 4 gauge KCA wire: <a href="http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/kca-complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit-/" target="_blank">KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise</a>. It's copper clad aluminum, so it's not as conductive as oxygen-free copper, but it's cheaper. It's their best price<img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite7" alt=":p" title="Stick out tongue :p" loading="lazy" data-shortname=":p" />erformance cable for your application, and it'll allow you to install a sub amp capable of fully powering those 10s. You could even slap a distro block on the end (which is like a fused splitter) so you can run one wire to the back, then two from the distro - one to each amp. You could manage both of those amps we talked about with a distro on the 4ga KCA, or run two wires. If you plan on upgrading to a powerful sub amp down the road and want to use a distro, buy the OFC (Kolossus) kit instead for future proofing.</p><p></p><p>That's enough for one response.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Umbra, post: 8342588, member: 658055"] You're going to wire the HU to the amps via RCA, so the ohm requirement is a moot point, like you've deduced. That's good to hear. Those smaller subs can handle 300W RMS each, so if you wire them to that sub you're giving them 250/600, which is underpowering them, definitely, but it's better than 250/1000. Because they're 2 ohm DVC you can wire each sub to 4 or 1 ohm. You can then wire the pair to , 8, 2, 2, or .5 ohms. .5 is right out, you will blow up the amp. 8 is going to be really, really underpowering them, so 2 is definitely the sweet spot. Ideally you're going to want to run the pair at 2 ohms. This is how you do that: [IMG]http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2DVC_2-ohm_mono.jpg[/IMG] You can also run one at 4 ohms if you're short on space, but it's obviously be less output. Given what you're listening to, and because of your space constraints, you'll want a sealed box. Ported has its advantages, but not so much in those genres (excluding dubstep). Kicker gets a bad rap, but their amps are actually pretty respectable. That amp does 30W RMS X 2 @ 4ohms. It's not the 65W your speakers could handle, but it's way better than nothing. I've had great luck with Craigslist, or you could try the [URL="http:////forums/wanting-buy-wtb-car-audio/"]Wanting to Buy (WTB) - Car Audio[/URL] section. If you don't want to buy used or online that Kicker amp should be fine. You don't need a two channel amp for more than two subs. It's mono, so any sub-bass in either the left or right channel will find its way to the subs. All the subs get wired to one channel. As a result, they divide the output amongst themselves. I'd recommend installing what you have. You'll need a wiring harness to connect the HU to the car and a wiring kit to connect the amp to the HU, battery, and chassis. Here's Knuconceptz 4 gauge KCA wire: [URL="http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/kca-complete-4-gauge-amplifier-installation-kit-/"]KCA Complete 4 Gauge Amplifier Installation Kit - Merchandise[/URL]. It's copper clad aluminum, so it's not as conductive as oxygen-free copper, but it's cheaper. It's their best price:performance cable for your application, and it'll allow you to install a sub amp capable of fully powering those 10s. You could even slap a distro block on the end (which is like a fused splitter) so you can run one wire to the back, then two from the distro - one to each amp. You could manage both of those amps we talked about with a distro on the 4ga KCA, or run two wires. If you plan on upgrading to a powerful sub amp down the road and want to use a distro, buy the OFC (Kolossus) kit instead for future proofing. That's enough for one response. [/QUOTE]
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