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<blockquote data-quote="disturbed471985" data-source="post: 7443092" data-attributes="member: 611718"><p>New setup starting up and this time I am going to go active or semi active whichever I can do.</p><p></p><p>Let me start off by saying that I know the best and tru way to go active is to get an active HU. Well a HU is not in my budget right now so getting one is out of the question. Now thats out the way so we can get down to what my next step should be. My idea is to run 2 sets of tweets and 2 sets of 6.5's in the front doors. Wiring each set in parr for a 2ohm load per set. Amp was going to be a <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MB-QUART-Q4-150-4-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-1760W-CAR-AMP-/300584723042?pt=Car_Amplifiers&amp;hash=item45fc3ee262" target="_blank">NEW MB QUART Q4.150 4-CHANNEL AMPLIFIER 1760W CAR AMP | eBay</a> I have used the smaller 4.125 and it did me right and gave me zero issues, plus every other amp that can do REAL 150x4@4ohm cost 3 times as much as this amp. Well in the last few days I have been told that amp is not active capable. I thought it was but now I am told nope will sound like crap. So I was told the best thing for me to do is to buy an external crossover and the cheapest compared to the price of a nice active HU. Or I could buy a amp that is active capable (sundown100.4d) for example. I can’t afford a 100.4 of course but now I want to know which route is the best using a external crossover or buying a active capable amp??? Pros and Cons of going with one over the other????</p><p></p><p>Also, I don’t know how to even tell a amp is capable of going active. Something bout band pass and something went right over my head. Can yall help me figure out the best way to go.</p><p></p><p>Option 1 - non active hu, non active amp, no external crossover.</p><p></p><p>Option 2 - non active hu, non active amp, external crossover</p><p></p><p>Option 3 - non active hu, active amp, no external crossover</p><p></p><p>Let me know what option is best for me but also give me some kind of direction on where to look for the things I will need to be able to do that option. I have no idea how to spy an active amp nor do I know a good external crossover from a POS either. So links, names, anything could help. Ok so now the money issue the crossover cannot cost more than $80 max. If going with a active amp is my best option then that amp cannot cost more than $240-270 and it must be able to do a min of 200rmsx4@2ohm. Legit amps guys I know I am on a budget but what I am wanting is possible with my budget just got to buy what I need not what I might need.</p><p></p><p>Substage will be last a later but will prob end up being 2 custom 10's and a bc3500, aq3500, 2 X BC2000's. So I am building a front stage that can keep up with the substage. I wanna hear wrds, I love bass but I got to be able to hear the song at the same time. All help appreciated..</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="disturbed471985, post: 7443092, member: 611718"] New setup starting up and this time I am going to go active or semi active whichever I can do. Let me start off by saying that I know the best and tru way to go active is to get an active HU. Well a HU is not in my budget right now so getting one is out of the question. Now thats out the way so we can get down to what my next step should be. My idea is to run 2 sets of tweets and 2 sets of 6.5's in the front doors. Wiring each set in parr for a 2ohm load per set. Amp was going to be a [URL="http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MB-QUART-Q4-150-4-CHANNEL-AMPLIFIER-1760W-CAR-AMP-/300584723042?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item45fc3ee262"]NEW MB QUART Q4.150 4-CHANNEL AMPLIFIER 1760W CAR AMP | eBay[/URL] I have used the smaller 4.125 and it did me right and gave me zero issues, plus every other amp that can do REAL 150x4@4ohm cost 3 times as much as this amp. Well in the last few days I have been told that amp is not active capable. I thought it was but now I am told nope will sound like crap. So I was told the best thing for me to do is to buy an external crossover and the cheapest compared to the price of a nice active HU. Or I could buy a amp that is active capable (sundown100.4d) for example. I can’t afford a 100.4 of course but now I want to know which route is the best using a external crossover or buying a active capable amp??? Pros and Cons of going with one over the other???? Also, I don’t know how to even tell a amp is capable of going active. Something bout band pass and something went right over my head. Can yall help me figure out the best way to go. Option 1 - non active hu, non active amp, no external crossover. Option 2 - non active hu, non active amp, external crossover Option 3 - non active hu, active amp, no external crossover Let me know what option is best for me but also give me some kind of direction on where to look for the things I will need to be able to do that option. I have no idea how to spy an active amp nor do I know a good external crossover from a POS either. So links, names, anything could help. Ok so now the money issue the crossover cannot cost more than $80 max. If going with a active amp is my best option then that amp cannot cost more than $240-270 and it must be able to do a min of 200rmsx4@2ohm. Legit amps guys I know I am on a budget but what I am wanting is possible with my budget just got to buy what I need not what I might need. Substage will be last a later but will prob end up being 2 custom 10's and a bc3500, aq3500, 2 X BC2000's. So I am building a front stage that can keep up with the substage. I wanna hear wrds, I love bass but I got to be able to hear the song at the same time. All help appreciated.. [/QUOTE]
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