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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Subless" data-source="post: 8495843" data-attributes="member: 669685">[quote name='blazian87'][USER=669685]@Subless[/USER]; I see where you&#39;re getting at now. How do you know the enclosure won&#39;t move around from that spot while you&#39;re driving? Is it snug enough to not move out of place? I would take JL&#39;s specs with a grain of salt. Having a box too big is not as bad of a problem as the box being to small. Atleast that way you can add layers for bracing to get to your target net space. Don&#39;t get caught up with all the numbers. Sealed boxes are much more forgiving so as long as you&#39;re in the ballpark, it&#39;ll sound good.</blockquote>The enclosure will ultimately be bolted into place. I had read somewhere that loose subs are heavy projectiles in car accidents. If I do this project, I&#39;ll listen to the sub first before drilling any holes. Here is JL&#39;s Jeep sub - <a href="http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13694606/JL-Audio-Stealthbox-Black-Drivers-Side.html?tp=113&awkw=140065033705&awat=pla&awnw=g&awcr=75378113065&awdv=c" target="_blank">JL Audio Stealthbox® (Black, Driver&#39;s Side) Custom-fit fiberglass enclosure with one 10TW1v3-4 subwoofer &#8212; fits 2007-up Jeep Wrangler Unlimited at Crutchfield.com</a>using the same driver that I&#39;m looking at. I might still just buy this one, but $600 x 2 seems like more than I want to pay. I&#39;ll have to add up what it&#39;s going to cost for me to build and decide from there. At least their product is tested and has very good reviews. I may be taking a bit of a risk for just saving two or three hundred bucks per sub. The drum shell will cost more than the Sonotube, but it is made out of layers of maple which I understand is a good choice for a sub box material. I guess at the moment I&#39;m still deciding on how the ends will be designed and whether the drum manufacturer will do the ends or if I will. The guy I&#39;m working with has not answered whether he can do the ends or not. I got to thinking that what might work is a 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" thick piece of mdf with a circular slot routed about 3/4" deep so that the edge of the drum shell can just slip in that slot and glued into place. I don&#39;t know if that is a difficult piece of woodworking or not. I certainly don&#39;t have the tools for it, so that cost will come into play and that&#39;s true even if I do the typical end piece that is flush inside the tube. I&#39;ll have to pay someone to cut it. I&#39;ve only found a web site that sells whole sheets of this stuff and so the cost and shipping might be prohibitive if I can&#39;t find it locally. If not, then I can do what most other folks do and glue and screw two 3/4" pieces together. I just thought it would be a nice clean design to go with one thick piece with the slot.      And yes the size is really an important question. You can see from JL&#39;s product that the internal space is not very much. My model at 9" is really bigger than I want. If a 7" one could sound like JL&#39;s, I&#39;d be in heaven. I had not thought that I would need to build in bracing other than the thick ends since this is not a very long box. I know from being a drummer that drum shells are very rigid. One thing I haven&#39;t decided on is whether to go with 10 layers instead of 8. I&#39;m thinking I might just for peace of mind. The manufacturer seemed to feel that 8 would be sufficient though. Any idea whether those sonotubes flex unless they&#39;re reinforced with fiberglass or other materials?    Editing this - Your question about size did bring up a good question. I know the specs for the driver, but I need to find out what the net air space is for the JL Stealthbox noted above. I&#39;ve sent a request to JL asking. I&#39;m wondering if they will give me that info.[/QUOTE]

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