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Need 2000W rms at 4 Ohms - Suggestions?
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<blockquote data-quote="gunz4me" data-source="post: 6090091" data-attributes="member: 596464"><p>Unfortunately, SQ is subjective and you are trying to pick out an arbitrary number in the frequency range where the human ear is the least sensitive. IIRC, in testing, I think most subjects couldn't determine damping factor until it was in the 50 to 100 range. Also, in the past, certain amplifier manufacturers claimed ultra high damping factors @ 4 ohms by measuring it at the circuit board, NOT the actual speaker connectors.</p><p></p><p>Another argument about damping factor, which is generally defined as the amplifier controlling the movement of the speaker, is that with modern subwoofer suspensions, one no longer needs a high damping factor. In other words, the spyder on the subwoofer combined with its surround can generally keep the subwoofer in check should things get a little wild from the amplifier's output.</p><p></p><p>With regards to SQ, there is one argument that comes over from the pro audio world that one will generally have slightly higher SQ at 4 ohms versus 1 ohm. The reasoning being is that many class D amplifiers tend to VI limit themselves out the wazoo at 1 ohm whereas at 4 ohms they don't have to VI limit as much due to the fact that the amplifier isn't working as hard.</p><p></p><p>Sadly, SQ is subjective and your install will play a bigger part in determining your SQ than your choice of subwoofer amplifier (ETA: or the final impedance of the monoblock). Another downside against JL Audio subwoofers is that JL Audio tends to give bogus enclosure sizes thus requiring one to build a larger than usual enclosure to achieve decent sub bass output from them. In other words, .75 cubic feet per 10 may not be enough because I found my 10w3v2s to sound better in 2.5 cubic feet sealed for the pair versus running each 10 in .75 cubic feet sealed. If the w3v3 series is anything like its predecessor, you will need more enclosure space to get a decent bottom end. In looking at JL Audio's specs, you will have a F3 response at near 50 Hz if you follow their recommendations. In a larger, open air SUV, this may be enough to get a decent low frequency extension due to the transfer function, or cabin gain as it is known. In an extended cab pickup truck, you may find the subwoofer to be a tad bit boomy by placing all four 10s in 3 cubic feet of airspace.</p><p></p><p>Of course, your mileage may vary.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="gunz4me, post: 6090091, member: 596464"] Unfortunately, SQ is subjective and you are trying to pick out an arbitrary number in the frequency range where the human ear is the least sensitive. IIRC, in testing, I think most subjects couldn't determine damping factor until it was in the 50 to 100 range. Also, in the past, certain amplifier manufacturers claimed ultra high damping factors @ 4 ohms by measuring it at the circuit board, NOT the actual speaker connectors. Another argument about damping factor, which is generally defined as the amplifier controlling the movement of the speaker, is that with modern subwoofer suspensions, one no longer needs a high damping factor. In other words, the spyder on the subwoofer combined with its surround can generally keep the subwoofer in check should things get a little wild from the amplifier's output. With regards to SQ, there is one argument that comes over from the pro audio world that one will generally have slightly higher SQ at 4 ohms versus 1 ohm. The reasoning being is that many class D amplifiers tend to VI limit themselves out the wazoo at 1 ohm whereas at 4 ohms they don't have to VI limit as much due to the fact that the amplifier isn't working as hard. Sadly, SQ is subjective and your install will play a bigger part in determining your SQ than your choice of subwoofer amplifier (ETA: or the final impedance of the monoblock). Another downside against JL Audio subwoofers is that JL Audio tends to give bogus enclosure sizes thus requiring one to build a larger than usual enclosure to achieve decent sub bass output from them. In other words, .75 cubic feet per 10 may not be enough because I found my 10w3v2s to sound better in 2.5 cubic feet sealed for the pair versus running each 10 in .75 cubic feet sealed. If the w3v3 series is anything like its predecessor, you will need more enclosure space to get a decent bottom end. In looking at JL Audio's specs, you will have a F3 response at near 50 Hz if you follow their recommendations. In a larger, open air SUV, this may be enough to get a decent low frequency extension due to the transfer function, or cabin gain as it is known. In an extended cab pickup truck, you may find the subwoofer to be a tad bit boomy by placing all four 10s in 3 cubic feet of airspace. Of course, your mileage may vary. [/QUOTE]
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