My Crossfire FRIED!!!!!

Dude, no offense but I re-read your original post, no mention of a 100Amp inline fuse. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
I've had a lot of experience with many amps that don't have onboard amp protection and all have listed the proper inline fuse rating...when followed, the inline fuse will blow before you fry the amp...are you sure your 100Amp fuse wasn't a tad too big? It appears that it was.
Your main fuse from your bat is to portect the cable from grounding dipshit not for the amps thermal!!!

 
Pushed to it's thermal limits from being underpowered ? I don't think so...

If your regulator went then the alternator would have been running full field and would be putting out increased voltage... Anything over 16volts is not good for those amps... And you can clearly see it is the power supply fets that burned up...

In this case, I'm not sure either a fuse or thermal protection would have helped...

(an overvoltage protection circuit would have)
Do you know what a volt reg does??? It regulates voltage... A reg can either give too much voltage or not enough when malfunctioning... In my case I didn't have enough like 10.5-11v. I've had one go were the voltage would spike and blow fuses but in this case it was under powered and got too hot obviously. Yes a fuse would have saved it, think what a fuse does for a second... It protects... from over voltage, thermal, shorting... obviously you need to learn b4 you judge and make asinine assumptions... Agin the question is IS IT WORTH REPAIRING??? not WHY DID MY AMP FRY??? Thanks for your input though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif...

 
Dude, no offense but I re-read your original post, no mention of a 100Amp inline fuse. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
I've had a lot of experience with many amps that don't have onboard amp protection and all have listed the proper inline fuse rating...when followed, the inline fuse will blow before you fry the amp...are you sure your 100Amp fuse wasn't a tad too big? It appears that it was.

Well my alpine mrp 500.1's have two 25's... my kicker 175.2 has a 15. Most cases you just use what equals your rms output or just under to be safe. Thats why I had a 100 amp. I've never fried a main fuse b4 a inline fuse unless it grounded to the chassis //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crap.gif.7f4dd41e3e9b23fbd170a1ee6f65cecc.gif. The main fuse is there to protect you power wire from grounding not for thermal safety of the amps internals. ... Fuses are also a good way to tell wether an amp can put out what the manufacture claims. Example: a 1500w amp with has say 3 25's is obviously way over rated.... it would tell me that it can only push 750rms not 1500 as claimed....

Atleast thats what I've always have been told.

 
Do you know what a volt reg does??? It regulates voltage... A reg can either give too much voltage or not enough when malfunctioning... In my case I didn't have enough like 10.5-11v. I've had one go were the voltage would spike and blow fuses but in this case it was under powered and got too hot obviously. Yes a fuse would have saved it, think what a fuse does for a second... It protects... from over voltage, thermal, shorting... obviously you need to learn b4 you judge and make asinine assumptions... Agin the question is IS IT WORTH REPAIRING??? not WHY DID MY AMP FRY??? Thanks for your input though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif...
OK mr. know it all.. why don't you call DB-r or go to a local repair shop and get a quote, and then decide if it's worth the repair bill... rather then asking us... Its a $175 amp in working condition as far as I am concerned, so do the math...

As far as the amp blowing up they shut down below 10.5 volts.. I know this because I run a VR2000D and have tested this..

And on that note, no amp in the history of car amplifiers has ever blown up because of a lack of voltage.. If you understood ohms law you would understand why this is true.. And no, a fuse does not protect against over voltage or the amps thermal temperature either.. it protects against over current...

In my experience a bad regulator can mean one of two things.. No voltage/current at all from the alternator.. or voltage that runs exceedingly high.. In your case it would seem that it was the latter of the two.. and you can throw in the possibility of bad rectifying diodes throwing AC voltage spikes on top of that...

Either way, rest assured, the amp did not blow up from a lack of voltage..

Jeesh, //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif

 
buttsecks.jpg
 
I bet the the top of that cap is flat and not bulged at all. its just a plastic cosmetic piece nothing more.
Why would a capacitor have a 'cosmetic piece' ???

Either way, if the power supply was overvolted I would at least remove the filter caps and test them while doing the repair...

 
Whatever I'm not going to argue with anyone. I don't care how it fried. I just want to know if CF's repair would be as good if not better than new. I bought this amp back in 04 for 350 and have never had a problem with it in the last 6 years until now. I would think for 150 they would replace the whole bored.

 
Whatever I'm not going to argue with anyone. I don't care how it fried. I just want to know if CF's repair would be as good if not better than new. I bought this amp back in 04 for 350 and have never had a problem with it in the last 6 years until now. I would think for 150 they would replace the whole bored.
Contact CF and find out then.

 
]Why would a capacitor have a 'cosmetic piece' ???[/b]
Either way' date=' if the power supply was overvolted I would at least remove the filter caps and test them while doing the repair...[/quote']

Really? lol here look I'll make this shit clear as day for you to understand.

That black part is just covering the the folds on the top of the cap to make it look clean.

take another look at the amp in this thread then look at this VR1000 notice the one I posted has no cover on the top and you can see the folds to seal the cap?

the plastic parts on the caps on the ops amp are there to hide those folds. Understand now?

Collection223.jpg
 
From the OPs pic it looks like the back of the caps in question are bulged and distorted.. even if they weren't I would least check them out, along with the rectifying diodes and all of the psu fets... is that shit clear as day for you to understand ? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gif

 
I will then.. GOD!!! Just a bunch of KNOW it all craby bastards here, geez... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

I wasn't gonna say anything but you're a idiot who thinks he knows it all, probably some little 16 year old punk. The responses you're getting are people trying to educate you on why your amp blew, if it's worth fixing for $150 that's for you to decide, it's your money. Most big amp have no internal fusing, so your comment about it not having internal fusing is idiotic, and if it did have internal fuses it still would have blown, get it. SO WHY DON'T YO GO PAY $150 AND FIX THE AMP AND DON'T ASK ANYONE WHAT THEY THINK, CAUSE IT'S OBVIOUS YOU'RE TOO IGNORANT TO COMPREHEND WHAT SOME GUYS ARE SAYING HERE. Oh and i had the same amp years ago with no problems, so a lot of us do speak from experience. I actually think your funny cause you try to talk like your knowledgable when you really aren't. So how much power should a 1500 rms amp with only 75 amps of fusing put out, mr know it all? You are really making me laugh with your knowledge lol.So STFU

 
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