My Crossfire FRIED!!!!!

[ericj]

A fuse wouldn't have saved this amp in this case since the voltage regulator went in the car. Voltage, amperage, current. Look them up.

 

[power-fanatic07 5,000+ posts]

I had a 100a inline fuse w/4awg. Plenty sufficient if you ask me. I'm talking about an onbord fuse block or a thermal pertect. You guy's need to learn how to read and observe. Crossfire never ran fuses and it's f'n retarded. I'm not looking for sympathy either, I'm simply asking if It's worth fixing???
Not to sound like a dick, but ****... READ!!!! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

You are a fucking idiot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif I have ran 15-20 different amps in the past couple years at least 10 mono amps with no on-board fuse and I have only fried one of them due to user error. If you know what you are doing, shit wont fry brah.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Yes, as a matter of fact I've fixed four amps--all for under $15 each. I've also fixed TVs, stereos, video game consoles, and many other electronic items. Nice try, though. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Well if your method is to just poke around with a dmm and replace whatever fets are blown then I'd hate to use one of your "repaired" amps. When amps blow like that it obviously damages some components but it also weakens others. You may be able to get it to power back up but it's definitely not a correct repair and will most likely fail again.

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

They're nicknamed Catchfire's for a reason.

 

[DBfan187 5,000+ posts]

If one semiconductor blows, you replace them all!

 

[SoundWave.Co 10+ year member]

Personally, I regret selling my VR1000D, was a great amp and I would pay the $150 to repair (since I have never repaired one myself //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif )to answer the ? plain and simple, IMO, it is worth it, and I like to use amps with no on board fusing, like the sub amps I am currently running.

As far as them being named "CatchFire's", I have NEVER seen a problem with them here locally and the old ones are still around and highly regarded.

 

[ericj]

Well if your method is to just poke around with a dmm and replace whatever fets are blown then I'd hate to use one of your "repaired" amps. When amps blow like that it obviously damages some components but it also weakens others. You may be able to get it to power back up but it's definitely not a correct repair and will most likely fail again.

I'm not sure why you're making so many assumptions. That's not my method, I just wanted to make it simple for the guy who has the amp. If he understood how electronic components work, he would know what to test, how to test, and when to replace. I've been doing electronics repair for over 12 years, so I don't need any lessons. Thanks anyways. I was just trying to help out.

 

[ericj]

If one semiconductor blows, you replace them all!

Right. To ensure equal work distribution and to allow for variances in composition, all should be replaced with semiconductors produced in the same lot. It's sometimes hard to know for sure, but purchasing them at the same time from the same retailer helps.

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

I'm not sure why you're making so many assumptions. That's not my method, I just wanted to make it simple for the guy who has the amp. If he understood how electronic components work, he would know what to test, how to test, and when to replace. I've been doing electronics repair for over 12 years, so I don't need any lessons. Thanks anyways. I was just trying to help out.

Trying to help and giving shoddy advice are two different things.

 

[Shinju 10+ year member]

Hell if you dont want it i'll take it if you let it go cheap, I need another one anyway.

I have owned several of these never once had an issue with any of them.

 

[Wingman0121 10+ year member]

I had a CFA1000D that served me well, the only complain I have is when it gets really cold(below freezing) the amp would turn on but it only plays weird noises until it warms up.

Also that bulge on top of your two primary capacitors means the amp had a really hard life if I'm correct. My CFA1000D didn't have that bulge at all for the 3 years that I had it.

 

[Shinju 10+ year member]

The caps just came that way, I had a bnib one that I took apart and the tops on those bulge due to the cheap plastic and the shrink coating would constict the tops to pop out like that. the current one I run now I know was not abused in anyway and it looks like that too.

The older ST-16 series Memphis amps had this same issue.

 

[Haunz 10+ year member]

The caps just came that way, I had a bnib one that I took apart and the tops on those bulge due to the cheap plastic and the shrink coating would constict the tops to pop out like that. the current one I run now I know was not abused in anyway and it looks like that too.
The older ST-16 series Memphis amps had this same issue.

If you say so... but it looks like the filter caps might have been overvolted to to me... I would replace all of that...

 

[Shinju 10+ year member]

If you say so... but it looks like the filter caps might have been overvolted to to me... I would replace all of that...

I have owned enough of these and have seen the internals on all of them, I bet the the top of that cap is flat and not bulged at all. its just a plastic cosmetic piece nothing more.

The 150 from CF is a full board replacement, atleast it was when I sent my first one back that I bought blown was. I know they have parts left for some of the VR Series.

 

[AlterEgo99 5,000+ posts]

A fuse wouldn't have saved this amp in this case since the voltage regulator went in the car. Voltage, amperage, current. Look them up.

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