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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8718910" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>horrible idea. Subs are subs, they arent midbass. It'll cause phase cancellation even with crossovers and the midbass will be extremely muddy. Stick with actual midbass drivers. </p><p></p><p>For your setup. Leave the rears on head unit power. Add the dayton dsp, Get rid of the passive crossovers on your front comps and Run the focals on active with your current 4 channel amp. Add a cheap 4 channel amp and bridge the amp to a pair of crescendo pwx 8s (they'll handle all the power and more and 4 channels bridged is cheaper and more powerful than a big 2 channel amp.) So dsp channels 1/2 is tweeters, channel 3/4 is the 5.25 inch mids, 5/6 is the 8 inch midbass, 7/8 is the subs or you can leave the subs connected to the head unit rca outputs, either way works. </p><p></p><p>Again no power should be wasted on the rear speakers ever other than head unit power.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8718910, member: 650438"] horrible idea. Subs are subs, they arent midbass. It'll cause phase cancellation even with crossovers and the midbass will be extremely muddy. Stick with actual midbass drivers. For your setup. Leave the rears on head unit power. Add the dayton dsp, Get rid of the passive crossovers on your front comps and Run the focals on active with your current 4 channel amp. Add a cheap 4 channel amp and bridge the amp to a pair of crescendo pwx 8s (they'll handle all the power and more and 4 channels bridged is cheaper and more powerful than a big 2 channel amp.) So dsp channels 1/2 is tweeters, channel 3/4 is the 5.25 inch mids, 5/6 is the 8 inch midbass, 7/8 is the subs or you can leave the subs connected to the head unit rca outputs, either way works. Again no power should be wasted on the rear speakers ever other than head unit power. [/QUOTE]
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