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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 3057596" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p>Did you read Zaph's driver tests {scroll down}</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.zaphaudio.com/" target="_blank">http://www.zaphaudio.com/</a></p><p></p><p>If you wanted to DIY, fully active, then choose your driver samples wisely</p><p></p><p>to mimimize costs. Start with tweeters and work down.</p><p></p><p>Tweeter tests.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.zaphaudio.com/" target="_blank">http://www.zaphaudio.com/</a>tweetermishmash/</p><p></p><p>Chose the ones that seem interesting and buy one of each for sampling.</p><p></p><p>Or... just take Zaph's word and pick the best bang for buck tweeter.</p><p></p><p>For tweeters I'd probably look for ones that can hang with a 1.7khz - 2.2khz</p><p></p><p>crossover frequency range as you can get better sound and imaging if the</p><p></p><p>tweeter operates this low, but with a steeper crossover slope, lets say</p><p></p><p>4th - 8th order. The cheaper tweeters may not be a nice in this frequency range</p><p></p><p>so you might want to rule out some of those $10 - $20 tweeters. lol</p><p></p><p>For mids you can gamble on the PHL product if you want, I like their products.</p><p></p><p>They have higher senstiviity pure midranges and some midwoofers, 6.5" all the</p><p></p><p>way up in size.</p><p></p><p>If you chose a good tweeter, PHL mid and later wanted to make your</p><p></p><p>own passive crossover, the quality tweeter will mate easily to many of</p><p></p><p>the PHL product because the PHL sound is more tolerable than the fancy</p><p></p><p>drivers using exotic cone materials {ie, Seas, Focal, etc.}. I can listen</p><p></p><p>to a PHL mid 'full range' and not be annoyed by cone breakup mods like</p><p></p><p>you hear from the other brands. In theory, you could just install a cheap</p><p></p><p>shallow crossover, 1st or 2nd order and it will work nice. Just make sure your</p><p></p><p>quality tweeter is good enough to handle this, so choose the tweeter wisely.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 3057596, member: 560358"] Did you read Zaph's driver tests {scroll down} [URL="http://www.zaphaudio.com/"]http://www.zaphaudio.com/[/URL] If you wanted to DIY, fully active, then choose your driver samples wisely to mimimize costs. Start with tweeters and work down. Tweeter tests. [URL="http://www.zaphaudio.com/"]http://www.zaphaudio.com/[/URL]tweetermishmash/ Chose the ones that seem interesting and buy one of each for sampling. Or... just take Zaph's word and pick the best bang for buck tweeter. For tweeters I'd probably look for ones that can hang with a 1.7khz - 2.2khz crossover frequency range as you can get better sound and imaging if the tweeter operates this low, but with a steeper crossover slope, lets say 4th - 8th order. The cheaper tweeters may not be a nice in this frequency range so you might want to rule out some of those $10 - $20 tweeters. lol For mids you can gamble on the PHL product if you want, I like their products. They have higher senstiviity pure midranges and some midwoofers, 6.5" all the way up in size. If you chose a good tweeter, PHL mid and later wanted to make your own passive crossover, the quality tweeter will mate easily to many of the PHL product because the PHL sound is more tolerable than the fancy drivers using exotic cone materials {ie, Seas, Focal, etc.}. I can listen to a PHL mid 'full range' and not be annoyed by cone breakup mods like you hear from the other brands. In theory, you could just install a cheap shallow crossover, 1st or 2nd order and it will work nice. Just make sure your quality tweeter is good enough to handle this, so choose the tweeter wisely. [/QUOTE]
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