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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 3057502" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p>Pure SQ?.............. headphones //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif</p><p></p><p>What I do is buy interesting drivers and learn how they perform, then you</p><p></p><p>can start to visualize a design that interests you. I really don't know what</p><p></p><p>you will like, nobody does. You can audition store speakers to get a baseline</p><p></p><p>idea on what you want.</p><p></p><p>You can choose a basic recipe, TM, TMM, MTM, TMW, WMTMW, etc., and try</p><p></p><p>to find driver candidates for the job at hand. Then condense your list and</p><p></p><p>buy some driver samples. You don't need to buy two of the same drivers,</p><p></p><p>just buy at least 3 - 4 unique tweeters and mids. Sample the drivers as is.</p><p></p><p>Unused drivers can be sold or reused for another project. This is how I would do</p><p></p><p>tackle a project but it's a different approach than other DIY'ers.</p><p></p><p>It's not a cheap methodology, but I get results because if you sample enough</p><p></p><p>drivers you will understand them and know right away what you like. You can do</p><p></p><p>a mono {not stereo} audition just to understand it's sonic character, just</p><p></p><p>buy one of each driver candidate.</p><p></p><p>A Behringer DCX2496 will be a great development tool so you can figure out</p><p></p><p>how the drivers perform and you can use it in the final install if you want.</p><p></p><p>It's a 3 way digital crossover. You can use it for L/R mains, up to 3 way design.</p><p></p><p>You can make a tweeter, midrange, woofer design and one DCX will cross it over.</p><p></p><p>If you want a 2 way, then you don't use the second pair of outputs.</p><p></p><p>If you want an active center channel then you need another active crossover</p><p></p><p>or a crossover with more outputs. An HT active install will get crazy as you need</p><p></p><p>more active crossover outputs and amp channels, but you have complete control</p><p></p><p>over the sound as you can adjust everything; crossover frequency, gain, PEQ,</p><p></p><p>delays, plus you can store these settings in different memory locations if you</p><p></p><p>want to create different sonic profiles. My line array has 12 profiles for different</p><p></p><p>listening scenarios.</p><p></p><p>DCX cons: It has no master volume control. Your source needs to control the</p><p></p><p>volume *OR* you need to control the volume on the output side of all the</p><p></p><p>DCX outputs. Some people actually do this with esoteric configurations. I think</p><p></p><p>they are panic freaks. DCX can AES/EBU digital *or* it can take SPDIF if you</p><p></p><p>buy a $20 SPDIF-AES converter transformer {Canare}, but you still need to</p><p></p><p>control the volume. I use a Roland M1000 mixer only because it has a digital</p><p></p><p>volume control. But that unit is discontinued.</p><p></p><p>My two mains;</p><p></p><p>Player-&gt;M1000-&gt;DCX-&gt;Amps-&gt;speakers</p><p></p><p>DCX accepts analog input but because it's a pro unit, it likes a strong</p><p></p><p>XLR signal from an XLR source, for example some home receivers have XLR</p><p></p><p>output {IIRC B&amp;K, Anthem, etc}, a preamp like Parasound Halo has XLR output,</p><p></p><p>these outputs with higher voltage are nice for a DCX. But it's not mandatory,</p><p></p><p>you can use a cheap RCA to XLR adapter and still run the system but you drive</p><p></p><p>the DCX with a lower input voltage, it works but not as great as the other solution.</p><p></p><p>If you want a simple home system then these ideas might be too crazy,</p><p></p><p>you probably need to just build some kits with passive crossovers and</p><p></p><p>be done with it.</p><p></p><p><strong>Wildcard: </strong></p><p></p><p>We know what store bought speakers can be very expensive to get</p><p></p><p>great sound and if you didn't want to DIY, then I'd probably use some of</p><p></p><p>the internet builders to make me a system, but it could cost more than your</p><p></p><p>budget, you will get a much better value than store bought speakers. You</p><p></p><p>can drop $5k on a pair of store speakers and you may feel robbed,</p><p></p><p>but you can drop that money on certain builders and feel better about the</p><p></p><p>purchase.</p><p></p><p>Example;</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.selahaudio.com/" target="_blank">http://www.selahaudio.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Floorstanding;</p><p></p><p>I like the RC4 design. Good recipe. I don't think you will find a store speaker</p><p></p><p>using this caliber of driver for that price. I will estimate this system would</p><p></p><p>probably cost $15k or more if you found it in the store.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.selahaudio.com/" target="_blank">http://www.selahaudio.com/</a>id67.html</p><p></p><p>Monitors;</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.selahaudio.com/" target="_blank">http://www.selahaudio.com/</a>id53.html</p><p></p><p>Salk has nice stuff.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.salksound.com/" target="_blank">http://www.salksound.com/</a></p><p></p><p>snip..</p><p></p><p>"Normally, speakers of this quality retail from $12000.00 to $20,000.00 or more per pair. But because these are custom-crafted and you are purchasing direct, you can expect to pay considerably less. HT3 pricing starts at $3899.00 per pair. "</p><p></p><p>Others to check out.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.rawacoustics.com/" target="_blank">http://www.rawacoustics.com/</a></p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.gr-research.com/" target="_blank">http://www.gr-research.com/</a></p><p></p><p>Some of these vendors have kits which is probably just drivers and crossovers,</p><p></p><p>you have to make the box. I would assume they have the box plans to give out.</p><p></p><p>Summary:</p><p></p><p>1. Store speakers - Could cost you big money to get the sound you want,</p><p></p><p>go audition stuff to get an idea where you stand.</p><p></p><p>2. Internet vendors like the ones I linked - Either kit {you build the box} or</p><p></p><p>they build the completed system. Better value than store speakers because</p><p></p><p>you cut out the middleman.</p><p></p><p>3. Cyber kits - You can just cloning premade designs published in cyber. This is</p><p></p><p>a good choice.</p><p></p><p>4. Your own DIY design - More time and more money because you have to</p><p></p><p>cherry pick the drivers that you like.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 3057502, member: 560358"] Pure SQ?.............. headphones [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif[/IMG] What I do is buy interesting drivers and learn how they perform, then you can start to visualize a design that interests you. I really don't know what you will like, nobody does. You can audition store speakers to get a baseline idea on what you want. You can choose a basic recipe, TM, TMM, MTM, TMW, WMTMW, etc., and try to find driver candidates for the job at hand. Then condense your list and buy some driver samples. You don't need to buy two of the same drivers, just buy at least 3 - 4 unique tweeters and mids. Sample the drivers as is. Unused drivers can be sold or reused for another project. This is how I would do tackle a project but it's a different approach than other DIY'ers. It's not a cheap methodology, but I get results because if you sample enough drivers you will understand them and know right away what you like. You can do a mono {not stereo} audition just to understand it's sonic character, just buy one of each driver candidate. A Behringer DCX2496 will be a great development tool so you can figure out how the drivers perform and you can use it in the final install if you want. It's a 3 way digital crossover. You can use it for L/R mains, up to 3 way design. You can make a tweeter, midrange, woofer design and one DCX will cross it over. If you want a 2 way, then you don't use the second pair of outputs. If you want an active center channel then you need another active crossover or a crossover with more outputs. An HT active install will get crazy as you need more active crossover outputs and amp channels, but you have complete control over the sound as you can adjust everything; crossover frequency, gain, PEQ, delays, plus you can store these settings in different memory locations if you want to create different sonic profiles. My line array has 12 profiles for different listening scenarios. DCX cons: It has no master volume control. Your source needs to control the volume *OR* you need to control the volume on the output side of all the DCX outputs. Some people actually do this with esoteric configurations. I think they are panic freaks. DCX can AES/EBU digital *or* it can take SPDIF if you buy a $20 SPDIF-AES converter transformer {Canare}, but you still need to control the volume. I use a Roland M1000 mixer only because it has a digital volume control. But that unit is discontinued. My two mains; Player->M1000->DCX->Amps->speakers DCX accepts analog input but because it's a pro unit, it likes a strong XLR signal from an XLR source, for example some home receivers have XLR output {IIRC B&K, Anthem, etc}, a preamp like Parasound Halo has XLR output, these outputs with higher voltage are nice for a DCX. But it's not mandatory, you can use a cheap RCA to XLR adapter and still run the system but you drive the DCX with a lower input voltage, it works but not as great as the other solution. If you want a simple home system then these ideas might be too crazy, you probably need to just build some kits with passive crossovers and be done with it. [B]Wildcard: [/B] We know what store bought speakers can be very expensive to get great sound and if you didn't want to DIY, then I'd probably use some of the internet builders to make me a system, but it could cost more than your budget, you will get a much better value than store bought speakers. You can drop $5k on a pair of store speakers and you may feel robbed, but you can drop that money on certain builders and feel better about the purchase. Example; [URL="http://www.selahaudio.com/"]http://www.selahaudio.com/[/URL] Floorstanding; I like the RC4 design. Good recipe. I don't think you will find a store speaker using this caliber of driver for that price. I will estimate this system would probably cost $15k or more if you found it in the store. [URL="http://www.selahaudio.com/"]http://www.selahaudio.com/[/URL]id67.html Monitors; [URL="http://www.selahaudio.com/"]http://www.selahaudio.com/[/URL]id53.html Salk has nice stuff. [URL="http://www.salksound.com/"]http://www.salksound.com/[/URL] snip.. "Normally, speakers of this quality retail from $12000.00 to $20,000.00 or more per pair. But because these are custom-crafted and you are purchasing direct, you can expect to pay considerably less. HT3 pricing starts at $3899.00 per pair. " Others to check out. [URL="http://www.rawacoustics.com/"]http://www.rawacoustics.com/[/URL] [URL="http://www.gr-research.com/"]http://www.gr-research.com/[/URL] Some of these vendors have kits which is probably just drivers and crossovers, you have to make the box. I would assume they have the box plans to give out. Summary: 1. Store speakers - Could cost you big money to get the sound you want, go audition stuff to get an idea where you stand. 2. Internet vendors like the ones I linked - Either kit {you build the box} or they build the completed system. Better value than store speakers because you cut out the middleman. 3. Cyber kits - You can just cloning premade designs published in cyber. This is a good choice. 4. Your own DIY design - More time and more money because you have to cherry pick the drivers that you like. [/QUOTE]
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