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<blockquote data-quote="thylantyr" data-source="post: 3056259" data-attributes="member: 560358"><p>Building as in "I don't know how to design a crossover"</p><p></p><p>or</p><p></p><p>building as "I don't know how to solder the crossover parts?"</p><p></p><p>The cyber kits have crossover design already and crossover assembly isn't hard either, practice soldering on junk wires.</p><p></p><p>The esoteric DIY 3 way designs would be best with an active setup, no passive</p><p></p><p>crossovers. You can use a $120 analog crossover or the much better $250 digital</p><p></p><p>crossover and you need some extra amp channels. Adjusting the crossover is easy.</p><p></p><p>It's easier to mix and match drivers with an active design, less design variables</p><p></p><p>to worry about. Just apply some common sense and you are up and running with</p><p></p><p>high SQ.</p><p></p><p>For instance, if you chose an active crossover that has 8th order crossover slope,</p><p></p><p>this pretty much guarantees that you can use any combination of drivers,</p><p></p><p>even the high end Seas, Focal, etc. with exotic cone materials that have</p><p></p><p>performance problems that yield to bad sound if you don't tame the cone</p><p></p><p>breakup modes.. rofl ... You can even use *some* harsh metal dome tweeters...</p><p></p><p>On the other hand, if your active crossover was limited to 2nd order, you might</p><p></p><p>want to buy non-metal dome tweeters, and paper treated midranges like PHL</p><p></p><p>which have less problems. But if you have 8th order, you can use almost any</p><p></p><p>driver combinations.</p><p></p><p>.. or you can ditch these high end ideas and rule planet earth and</p><p></p><p>make a line array, it's only extra time &amp; money //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif</p><p></p><p>There is a B&amp;C 'pure mid' that looks interesting, 1/2 of the cost of PHL,</p><p></p><p>but I never got a chance to audition them. Recently I got word from someone</p><p></p><p>who did and they really like the sound.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-650" target="_blank">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-650</a></p><p></p><p>They claim it's cone treated.</p><p></p><p>IMO, paper treated mids have best sound over fancy materials.</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-651" target="_blank">http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-651</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thylantyr, post: 3056259, member: 560358"] Building as in "I don't know how to design a crossover" or building as "I don't know how to solder the crossover parts?" The cyber kits have crossover design already and crossover assembly isn't hard either, practice soldering on junk wires. The esoteric DIY 3 way designs would be best with an active setup, no passive crossovers. You can use a $120 analog crossover or the much better $250 digital crossover and you need some extra amp channels. Adjusting the crossover is easy. It's easier to mix and match drivers with an active design, less design variables to worry about. Just apply some common sense and you are up and running with high SQ. For instance, if you chose an active crossover that has 8th order crossover slope, this pretty much guarantees that you can use any combination of drivers, even the high end Seas, Focal, etc. with exotic cone materials that have performance problems that yield to bad sound if you don't tame the cone breakup modes.. rofl ... You can even use *some* harsh metal dome tweeters... On the other hand, if your active crossover was limited to 2nd order, you might want to buy non-metal dome tweeters, and paper treated midranges like PHL which have less problems. But if you have 8th order, you can use almost any driver combinations. .. or you can ditch these high end ideas and rule planet earth and make a line array, it's only extra time & money [IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/*******.gif.a649d21efc0d1fd4890a6428166586c1.gif[/IMG][IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/cool.gif.3bcaf8f141236c00f8044d07150e34f7.gif[/IMG][IMG]//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif[/IMG] There is a B&C 'pure mid' that looks interesting, 1/2 of the cost of PHL, but I never got a chance to audition them. Recently I got word from someone who did and they really like the sound. [URL="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-650"]http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-650[/URL] They claim it's cone treated. IMO, paper treated mids have best sound over fancy materials. [URL="http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-651"]http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=294-651[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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