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Message: <blockquote data-quote="analogfreq" data-source="post: 8680765" data-attributes="member: 677695">Thank you.Yes, 2 channels of one of the amps will power the kicks. 70w RMS @ 4ohms, so not huge, but I dont think I need to fully power these drivers, not looking for earbleeding SPL. I think I will be happy with the Morel 402's, they are breaking in right now, about 20 hours in now. I made some Baltic Birch enclosures, and am machining some adjustable mounts so they will sit at head level, behind the seats in the corners. I do not think it will take much from the midbass section to balance those, what is important to me is smooth response and some good kick. With the 402's and the sub, there is a big gap between 100-300hz (ish)I think I am abandoning the idea of keeping the drivers hidden in the rear cavities of the car, mainly due to too many compromises in using that location, and more effort needed in sealing and damping. So, right now I am trying to figure out what the minimum size box is for building the kick section. I have decided on the Dynaudio Esotec MW162 driver for these. Most of the box calculators are for subwoofer enclosures. I do not need or want to go to 30hz with these, only right around 100hz. The amp has a low pass filter on it, and I will put a capacitor in-line to cut out the sub frequencies. I think this is a workable plan, except I have no idea how to calculate for a box, sealed, bass reflex, or bandpass, that is tuned for the 100-300hz range, short of building a couple of test cabinets, oversize, and gradually moving the rear panel in. Unfortunately, I am not set up to measure frequency response, so that would just have to be a 'sounds good' sort of thing. I would love to know that I am starting from an engineered volume tuned for the chosen frequency.Any ideas on what sort of cabinet would be a good balance of smallest size and smooth, flat frequency response? How to design the cabinets?</blockquote>

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