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Little help on wiring up second battery.... pics :)
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<blockquote data-quote="audioholic" data-source="post: 4690807" data-attributes="member: 549629"><p>Explain that statement. And I hope its good, because with all your explanations and charts in this thread, that one single comment suggests you do not understand the utmost fundamentals of how your vehicle's charging system works.</p><p>You can buy fuses with different burn characteristics (slow-blow, etc), so I find your 'twice the rated current for 20-30 seconds' curious. Where did you obtain this data?</p><p>If a 200 amp fuse would pass 300-400 amps for 30 seconds, why do you think they rate it for 200 amps?</p><p></p><p>"<em>The wire is good for 325 amps, but a fuse that big would provide almost no protection for him in a 70-120 amp electrical system.</em>"</p><p></p><p>So, you have concluded that even with a dead short, his system could not provide more than 120 amps of current? At this point I have to advise hoxie to stop taking your advice. For all your seemingly good intentions, you misunderstand some basic ideas that lead to flawed conclusions.</p><p></p><p>You are right about one thing though, finding the right window to properly size your fuse. Your mistake is on the low end however, as the amplifier can draw current spikes in upwards of its peak power rating while operating normally (and even more if clipped).</p><p></p><p>You do not understand what happens in the charging system when system voltage varies. The alternator powers/charges the system (batts, caps, etc) by providing a higher voltage than the battery. If the amplifier(s) pulls more current than the alt can provide, system voltage drops to the point that the battery starts supplying to make up the difference. If the power demand is great enough, or lasts long enough, the battery will deplete, dropping system voltage even further. This can also happen in very short periods of time while the system makes up for loses due to resistance in the battery and cables.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audioholic, post: 4690807, member: 549629"] Explain that statement. And I hope its good, because with all your explanations and charts in this thread, that one single comment suggests you do not understand the utmost fundamentals of how your vehicle's charging system works. You can buy fuses with different burn characteristics (slow-blow, etc), so I find your 'twice the rated current for 20-30 seconds' curious. Where did you obtain this data? If a 200 amp fuse would pass 300-400 amps for 30 seconds, why do you think they rate it for 200 amps? "[I]The wire is good for 325 amps, but a fuse that big would provide almost no protection for him in a 70-120 amp electrical system.[/I]" So, you have concluded that even with a dead short, his system could not provide more than 120 amps of current? At this point I have to advise hoxie to stop taking your advice. For all your seemingly good intentions, you misunderstand some basic ideas that lead to flawed conclusions. You are right about one thing though, finding the right window to properly size your fuse. Your mistake is on the low end however, as the amplifier can draw current spikes in upwards of its peak power rating while operating normally (and even more if clipped). You do not understand what happens in the charging system when system voltage varies. The alternator powers/charges the system (batts, caps, etc) by providing a higher voltage than the battery. If the amplifier(s) pulls more current than the alt can provide, system voltage drops to the point that the battery starts supplying to make up the difference. If the power demand is great enough, or lasts long enough, the battery will deplete, dropping system voltage even further. This can also happen in very short periods of time while the system makes up for loses due to resistance in the battery and cables. [/QUOTE]
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Little help on wiring up second battery.... pics :)
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