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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Stingerssx" data-source="post: 8577043" data-attributes="member: 659199">Ok, so I made a WHOLE bunch of changes.First:  Boomin_tahoe: yeah, I used to have a photobucket account just for forums, but then most of them started to allow you to direct upload.Guess I'll have to see if my account is still good!llebcire: Thank you AGAIN for the wiring diagram. I did double check my polarity, and all three are right. Your picture that shows the harness to the LC1 is exactly how I set up mine.I've avoided tapatalk for years just because it annoys me anytime I go to a forum on my phone. I tried it once a long time ago, but I didn't like it then. Maybe I just need to give it another try.So, on to the changes.First, added poly fill. No changes what so ever.Second, messed with the gains. Again, the same thing happens with the maximize light.I'm not sure this unit is defective, because I had the same thing happen with the DD1, and the Soundstream Bx10x. The DD1 wouldn't even register, then all the lights came on, and they wouldn't go off until I rebooted it. The Bx10x has a maximize light as well, and the same thing would happen. While adjusting it, the light would come on and not go off until I turned everything all the way down.The same thing was happening this morning.With the head unit at 40, the light didn't come on. Turned the input levels of the LC7i up, all the way and the light never came on. Then turned up the accubass. All the way no light. Turned up the threshold, after about 95% the light came on, the sub distorted, so I turned it back down.This is on a sine wave at 40hz.Same thing at 30hz, 32hz, 45hz, 50hz, and 55hz. And after that it the bass starts dying down.I have noticed that the accubass and threshold don't do anything to my sound.Then with the head unit at 30, I set the everything on the LC7i to half way. Then I turned up the input on the amp. Throughout the dial there are three markings. .2v (min) 1.4v (half) and 9v (max).I set it at 1.4v. So now everything is half all the way around.And for some reason, while testing it, I noticed that the bass volume would change on it's own. Weird I know. And it was one of those times where all the levels were set, and the maximize light was not on. The bass got louder on it's own and turned the light on.I played with different frequencies. I noticed that the loudest frequency is 43.5hz. And it really starts to roll off under 33hz and above 54hz.So this is why my bass *****......This whole time the sub really moves, so I know it's getting good power.Now, I'm starting to think. I changed the input from rear speakers into ch 3 &amp; 4 and sub into ch 5 &amp; 6 to rears into main and sub into ch 3 &amp; 4 and changed the RCAs from ch 5 &amp; 6 to main output. I also summed the two channels.That made a HUGE difference. Now the sub kicks the way it should. And still, there is a louder boomier range between 33 and 54, but I now have a more full range bass.Funny, cause with the other way, (ch 3-6) I changed the RCAs to the ch 3 &amp; 4 output and there was NO bass at all.Whatever.....But now, no matter how the inputs are set, when playing music, the maximize light will flash. If I turn up the levels, it will stay on. But I can't get it to stop coming on.So, it is a LOT better, and a lot louder. Which means now I need to sound deaden because I got the rattles now. I'll have to watch out for distortion, but I can't hear any, (doesn't mean it's not there).But one thing that I really hate, is with the trunk open, it sounds a WHOLE lot better and louder. When I close the trunk, and roll up all of the windows, the bass is really muted. Even when I "port" the trunk by opening the accessible hole in the armrest, or when I drop the rear seats completely.</blockquote>

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