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<blockquote data-quote="nbudros" data-source="post: 4052492" data-attributes="member: 569903"><p>I was kidding.</p><p></p><p>The reason it doesn't work is this, both waves in the trunk out of sinc will cause cancellation and sound bad.</p><p></p><p>Plus why bother. You don't want substage playing above 100hz they arnt built for that. It will sound bad. If you have room for a 15 to get low hz easier then go a single 15 if you mussssst have more midbass put 8s in the doors.</p><p></p><p>I have 6.5 comps that are light and shallow with 1 12 and its great midbass.</p><p></p><p>What your suggesting is 2 substages abd that's just to much work as well your doing all that work for no gain. Nothing special will happen.</p><p></p><p>People do 8s and 10s with the 8s in the doors but those 8s are midbass drivers not subs</p><p></p><p>So there is some more information. Again don't bother. Put the 10" sub and amp money into comps up front.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="nbudros, post: 4052492, member: 569903"] I was kidding. The reason it doesn't work is this, both waves in the trunk out of sinc will cause cancellation and sound bad. Plus why bother. You don't want substage playing above 100hz they arnt built for that. It will sound bad. If you have room for a 15 to get low hz easier then go a single 15 if you mussssst have more midbass put 8s in the doors. I have 6.5 comps that are light and shallow with 1 12 and its great midbass. What your suggesting is 2 substages abd that's just to much work as well your doing all that work for no gain. Nothing special will happen. People do 8s and 10s with the 8s in the doors but those 8s are midbass drivers not subs So there is some more information. Again don't bother. Put the 10" sub and amp money into comps up front. [/QUOTE]
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