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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8356404" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>@Chris Davies</p><p>Your biggest problem will be the roof and the rear 3rd row windows. Sound deadener wont do crap for the roof. You need to brace it with 1/2 plywood, stick it in between the crossbrace ribs and use silicone adhesive and great stuff expanding foam to prevent it from touching the metal surface. This was way cheaper and worked 10x better than two layers of deadener, roof is soo solid it can withstand me throwing full force haymakers at it. For doors and tailgate, You will most likely need a bulk pack of stinger expert roadkill for 99 dollars, the stuff is thicker and more quality than dynamat only requires 25% coverage to achieve great results. </p><p></p><p>For the 3rd row windows, id line everything up with thick weatherstrip foam tape from home depot because even when you lock it in, it will still flap around, the foam will stop that in its tracks. Along with the center sunglasses holder/passenger mirror on the roof, that needs either spray foam (what i used, no one will see whats underneath anyways) or a lot of closed cell/weatherstrip foam to stop the noises made, theres lots of metal pieces in the back that will vibrate against eachother. The rest is just spot treatments but those are the only issues of audible interior rattle i have.</p><p></p><p>Birch ply is waay lighter, the box for two 18s 12.5 cubic feet net, i can pick it up with one arm without the 18s in there. Its a lot stronger than mdf too, you still need bracing at proper areas though. Another good thing is screws stay in very nicely compared to mdf</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8356404, member: 650438"] @Chris Davies Your biggest problem will be the roof and the rear 3rd row windows. Sound deadener wont do crap for the roof. You need to brace it with 1/2 plywood, stick it in between the crossbrace ribs and use silicone adhesive and great stuff expanding foam to prevent it from touching the metal surface. This was way cheaper and worked 10x better than two layers of deadener, roof is soo solid it can withstand me throwing full force haymakers at it. For doors and tailgate, You will most likely need a bulk pack of stinger expert roadkill for 99 dollars, the stuff is thicker and more quality than dynamat only requires 25% coverage to achieve great results. For the 3rd row windows, id line everything up with thick weatherstrip foam tape from home depot because even when you lock it in, it will still flap around, the foam will stop that in its tracks. Along with the center sunglasses holder/passenger mirror on the roof, that needs either spray foam (what i used, no one will see whats underneath anyways) or a lot of closed cell/weatherstrip foam to stop the noises made, theres lots of metal pieces in the back that will vibrate against eachother. The rest is just spot treatments but those are the only issues of audible interior rattle i have. Birch ply is waay lighter, the box for two 18s 12.5 cubic feet net, i can pick it up with one arm without the 18s in there. Its a lot stronger than mdf too, you still need bracing at proper areas though. Another good thing is screws stay in very nicely compared to mdf [/QUOTE]
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