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Infinity Speaker and Audiobahn Amp Question
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<blockquote data-quote="DejaWiz" data-source="post: 2072494" data-attributes="member: 569941"><p>1. Say you get the following setup: Polk MMC6500 and Polk MMC690. Both speakers sets are 4 ohms, so the amp would be driving each with 100w rms (in reality more like 80-90, due to the voltage in your car really being 12.5-13.8V instead of 14.4V). If you decided to get the Kappa 6x9's for the rear, those are 2 ohms, and would run at 125w rms each (again, this is masured at 14.4V, so figure about 90-115w at 12.5-13.8v).</p><p></p><p>2. Yes, you can turn the gains down a smidge to prevent clipping and overdriving the speakers.</p><p></p><p>3. Something from a company like EFX(new Scosche line), Tsunami, Kicker, JL, Stinger, etc. Don't cheap out on this. Crap brands give you power/ground wire that is measured WITH the surrounding insulation. They call it 4 gauge, when in reality, it's 8 guage with a thick surround.</p><p></p><p>4. Depends on:</p><p></p><p>a) what you need that's not in the install kit</p><p></p><p>b) how tidy and flexible you want your wiring install.</p><p></p><p>If you are going to run multiple amps sometime in the future (adding a sub/s, etc), you will need power and ground distibution blocks, and possibly enough wire to do the "Big 3". If ever there is a chance that you'll want to add an amp in the future, don't get the minimum gauge wire now. Get a size or two bigger just so you don't have to rip everything out come the time to expand your system. Example: if your amp calls for 8 gauge minimum, then don't run 8 gauge from the battery to the amp. Jump it up to 4 gauge.</p><p></p><p>Oh, and if you want to stick with PA for the amp, you'll probably want to get a pair of this amp for the Polk Momo front comps and rear 6x9s:</p><p></p><p><a href="http://www.millionbuy.com/paklt6202.html" target="_blank">http://www.millionbuy.com/paklt6202.html</a></p><p></p><p>Slightly more power and the footprint is under a sq-ft.</p><p></p><p>If you're looking to save some serious cash on amps alone, I don't think you can make a better choice than the LT series for the money. They are actually built quite well and do put out around their advertised power. Unfortunately, I've never had any long-term experience with them, so I can't comment about general lifespan. But if you don't beat on it or push it to the limits, well there's the old saying: Treat it right, it'll treat you right.</p><p></p><p>Check out the Scosche/EFX E3200 wiring kit. It's a true 0 gauge kit that comes with the batt terminal, power distro block, and a ton of other things you would normally need to buy separately. For everything that's included, it's a steal of a deal. Both millionbuy and sonicelectronix has it for sale. 0 gauge may seem like total overkill, but for the money why surpass complete flexibility?! If you fuse it correctly, you'll be able to run any amp config that doesn't teeter on the edges of insanity.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="DejaWiz, post: 2072494, member: 569941"] 1. Say you get the following setup: Polk MMC6500 and Polk MMC690. Both speakers sets are 4 ohms, so the amp would be driving each with 100w rms (in reality more like 80-90, due to the voltage in your car really being 12.5-13.8V instead of 14.4V). If you decided to get the Kappa 6x9's for the rear, those are 2 ohms, and would run at 125w rms each (again, this is masured at 14.4V, so figure about 90-115w at 12.5-13.8v). 2. Yes, you can turn the gains down a smidge to prevent clipping and overdriving the speakers. 3. Something from a company like EFX(new Scosche line), Tsunami, Kicker, JL, Stinger, etc. Don't cheap out on this. Crap brands give you power/ground wire that is measured WITH the surrounding insulation. They call it 4 gauge, when in reality, it's 8 guage with a thick surround. 4. Depends on: a) what you need that's not in the install kit b) how tidy and flexible you want your wiring install. If you are going to run multiple amps sometime in the future (adding a sub/s, etc), you will need power and ground distibution blocks, and possibly enough wire to do the "Big 3". If ever there is a chance that you'll want to add an amp in the future, don't get the minimum gauge wire now. Get a size or two bigger just so you don't have to rip everything out come the time to expand your system. Example: if your amp calls for 8 gauge minimum, then don't run 8 gauge from the battery to the amp. Jump it up to 4 gauge. Oh, and if you want to stick with PA for the amp, you'll probably want to get a pair of this amp for the Polk Momo front comps and rear 6x9s: [URL="http://www.millionbuy.com/paklt6202.html"]http://www.millionbuy.com/paklt6202.html[/URL] Slightly more power and the footprint is under a sq-ft. If you're looking to save some serious cash on amps alone, I don't think you can make a better choice than the LT series for the money. They are actually built quite well and do put out around their advertised power. Unfortunately, I've never had any long-term experience with them, so I can't comment about general lifespan. But if you don't beat on it or push it to the limits, well there's the old saying: Treat it right, it'll treat you right. Check out the Scosche/EFX E3200 wiring kit. It's a true 0 gauge kit that comes with the batt terminal, power distro block, and a ton of other things you would normally need to buy separately. For everything that's included, it's a steal of a deal. Both millionbuy and sonicelectronix has it for sale. 0 gauge may seem like total overkill, but for the money why surpass complete flexibility?! If you fuse it correctly, you'll be able to run any amp config that doesn't teeter on the edges of insanity. [/QUOTE]
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