pickup1
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
W0 would be a step backwards...
NJTStang11
10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Upgrading size while downgrading subs is not going to help much if any. Grab another 1000/1 and throw in 2 12's that can get down on 1k sealed. DC Level 3s?
- Thread Starter
- #4
Yeah, that's exactly what I was wondering. I know the W0's are a step backwards, but have the impression the 15's move air differently - surface area vs travel.
LosIsATool
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
Displacement. But motor force matters also.
- Thread Starter
- #6
By motor force are you referring to the amp? If the amp is constant (as in I'm not changing it out) then the motor force would be the same either way?
But if you are referring to the coil/magnet... then is there any way to quantify this statement or compare this force between two drivers? I don't know of any?
LosIsATool
5,000+ posts
CarAudio.com Veteran
I'm talking about the motor. The BL factor. Bigger motor, more output. That's not the only factor of course.. Coil diameter, winding, material, weight, cooling.
If this is for a sealed application, XMAX and comparing cone area will give you 80% of the picture by itself. From there it's just a matter of how big a box each speaker needs and how much power they need to reach xmax in a reasonable box size. For sealed apps cone are wins the vast majority of the time. That being said, in this case, port them. It's much cheaper and in an open air app, why people run sealed in the first place is beyond me. In a car and even in home sealed is ok because you get some gain due to the boundary loading, so it gives you more or less a flat response in the room. In the open air, your just losing bass as you play lower notes and having increased distortion. Port those puppies, tune around 35-40hz and let er rip, you'll be glad ya did //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
I asked a similar question a few months ago and got some very good answers from some of the members here..... We were planning on building a nice big system for the boat but ended up finding some very worn out parts in our stern drive. So needless to say the money went to fixing that instead of getting some boom boom. But I did have chance to play around with few subs this winter and found that cone area seems to be the ticket but at the same time I found that any thing around 300rms and lower was a complete waste of time. Which makes sense no power, no moving air equal **** poor distance test. The sealed boxes I agree do have better sq but out in the open and under power with wind noise you need all the db's you can get. If you can fit 15 on a 1000rms in a ported box tuned to around 30 to 32 hertz I'd say you will be very pleased with the out come. Just my 2 cents
Since its the deep lows you are lacking, and you say you have room for even 4 15s if you had to - why not a single Sundown X18 in a big ported box? Those get down low, and you won't run out of excursion with 1k. You could build say a 8 cubic foot box, tuned to around 28hz to really bring out the lows, or have an adjustable or swappable port to bring the tuning up to 35-38 for more of a boomy sound. Should get plenty loud on 1k.
You can probably get most if not all the money you'll need if you sell the 12w3s to buy the X18 and MDF to build a simple box.
You can probably get most if not all the money you'll need if you sell the 12w3s to buy the X18 and MDF to build a simple box.
Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Again. if you want loud and deep bass for a big open space, 12" JL w3s are not the subs to do so. They will just reinforce the sound to have some low end in your music but thats it. If you want chest thumping bass, your going to want beefier subs then that.
Give us a budget.
However, theres another option, you'll be giving up some frequency response but it'll get a lot louder. It requires making a 4th order bandpass box. W3s do a good amount of work in a properly designed 4th order bandpass.
Give us a budget.
However, theres another option, you'll be giving up some frequency response but it'll get a lot louder. It requires making a 4th order bandpass box. W3s do a good amount of work in a properly designed 4th order bandpass.
- Thread Starter
- #12
I'm open on the budget. I can throw some money at it if needed. I don't really want to add another amp, so that would be the biggest constraint. I'll admit I'm a huge JL fan, I worked for a stereo shop back in the early 90's when they were first coming out. We used to build boxes using the JL Audio Spec/Guide Book aka: JL Bible with some amazing results. Anyone remember MoeSPL? I'd like to stick with them, but am open for other options. Space wise I do have a lot of space available if needed - right now I have a narrow sealed box that gets pushed up against the back wall if you will. I can build out (but that takes up valuable floor space) and I can build across - narrow but wider, which is fine. To do an 8cu ft or even a bandpass I'd probably have to make the enclosure into a table of sorts since this is kind of used/living space on the boat.
Right now the 12's sound good, but the bass doesn't seem to travel very far. At high volumes it gets loud and you can really feel it if you are standing on the back deck. It's impressive on the boat, but when you step off the bass seems to be lost quickly. I do like the idea of trying something easy and new. I build my own enclosures so the cost to try something is minimal in the grand scheme of things... thinking about the bandpass...
Where would one go these days for some good enclosure specs if I wanted to try a bandpass for the 12w3's?
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Jeffdachef
5,000+ posts
Gunz That Turn on Nunz
hit up PWK enclosure designs, He'll tell you what kind of enclosure would work best in your setup and design around your setup.
I'd say if your hearts set on JL and not wanting to add another amp go with one 13w7 on a 1000 in a ported box tuned to 30 to 32. Last. Year we just threw sum stuff I had laying around together for our boat. I little cerwin vega 10 inch v max and a junky 400rms sony amp and the box tuned to 32 hertz and it was pretty impressive to say the least. We clipped the crap outta that thing and never missed a beat. I'd say if you want the bass to travel very far your going to need more than one sub and more power than just a 1000rms. But honestly if I think the 13w7 on a 1000 would sound pretty good. Some people tend to get mad when people start having stereo wars. Best of luck man if you end up building some thing share some pics everyone loves that stuff around here.
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