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Im doing everything wrong plz halp
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<blockquote data-quote="Jeffdachef" data-source="post: 8670925" data-attributes="member: 650438"><p>the main rule of car audio is, less is more. Too many speakers in the system will make everything sound like sh*t and you want all the amplifier power in front, nothing in the rear, that can be left on head unit power. You will need a new radio around 100 bucks, and the steering wheel retention hardware costs around 70-80 bucks my personal suggestion, screw the steering wheel control, you can play music with bluetooth on your phone and save that money for an amp. those 600 watt numbers are not the numbers you should be looking at, you should be looking at construction material usually go for silk domes on the tweeters. You'll want decent sensitivity ratings as well aim for 90db or higher sensitivity. Go for components or raw drivers aka seperate midrange and tweeter drivers and use the head unit to actively crossover.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Jeffdachef, post: 8670925, member: 650438"] the main rule of car audio is, less is more. Too many speakers in the system will make everything sound like sh*t and you want all the amplifier power in front, nothing in the rear, that can be left on head unit power. You will need a new radio around 100 bucks, and the steering wheel retention hardware costs around 70-80 bucks my personal suggestion, screw the steering wheel control, you can play music with bluetooth on your phone and save that money for an amp. those 600 watt numbers are not the numbers you should be looking at, you should be looking at construction material usually go for silk domes on the tweeters. You'll want decent sensitivity ratings as well aim for 90db or higher sensitivity. Go for components or raw drivers aka seperate midrange and tweeter drivers and use the head unit to actively crossover. [/QUOTE]
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Im doing everything wrong plz halp
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