I screwed up... zx1000.1

[xoleras 10+ year member]

just send it back and get stuck with the restocking fees, that dealer is a POS ripoff, you can get a 2500.1 for 600 on ebay and buy 3 year warranty for another 25.

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

That L7 shouldn't need anymore than the zx1000.1 can do anyway

 

[a_steezy]

yaaa... i'll post it up, see what i can get for it, then ship it back within the 14 days or whatever

and the L7 defiently wants the zx1500 with bass boost down, barely pushin the amp, runnin it cool vs. running the crap outta the 1000 and going into protection mode with knobs uppp

 

[▼)Ñ╩fZΣµ& 10+ year member]

u lose, ftmflnoob

 

[a_steezy]

ya mangzzz im pretty pissed about this whole ordeal, kinda gay but my fault for bein' a newb

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

yaaa... i'll post it up, see what i can get for it, then ship it back within the 14 days or whatever
and the L7 defiently wants the zx1500 with bass boost down, barely pushin the amp, runnin it cool vs. running the crap outta the 1000 and going into protection mode with knobs uppp

The L7 is only rated for 1000w, and Kicker amps usually do a bit more than rated power. If you can't push that sub without clipping the amp and pushing it into protect, then you don't belong near car audio.

I can understand if you want to send it back and just get one cheaper, but you don't need the 1500.1 for that sub. Judging by your comments, you will probably crank it way too hard and fry the sub. And since you will be pushing more than rated power, your warranty will be void.

 

[▼)Ñ╩fZΣµ& 10+ year member]

how will they ever knowsss?

wouldnt it jus be fine havin the gain down, simple as dat

 

[a_steezy]

The L7 is only rated for 1000w, and Kicker amps usually do a bit more than rated power. If you can't push that sub without clipping the amp and pushing it into protect, then you don't belong near car audio.

I can understand if you want to send it back and just get one cheaper, but you don't need the 1500.1 for that sub. Judging by your comments, you will probably crank it way too hard and fry the sub. And since you will be pushing more than rated power, your warranty will be void.

ima have this amp pushing minimal power to the subs, all gains and bass boost will be off, read before you right, and anyone knows on here, the L7 will take more than 1000 easy, for daily driving. what is powering every 'dual 15" l7' system... a zx2500.1 that's above the 1000 huh bitch, leave this thread, thank you

please quit bitching and leave this thread

oleras, one of the most bad *** setups around on your video

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

how will they ever knowsss?

wouldnt it jus be fine havin the gain down, simple as dat

They can usually tell when a sub is blown due to abuse.

And you definitely could run it on the larger amp if you set the gains correctly, but this kid doesn't appear to have that kind of restraint.

OP, you DO NOT have to crank the gain and risk going into protect to get full power out of any amp(unless it's pyramid or something). Just so you know

 

[Hintzyboy 5,000+ posts]

ima have this amp pushing minimal power to the subs, all gains and bass boost will be off, read before you right, and anyone knows on here, the L7 will take more than 1000 easy, for daily driving. what is powering every 'dual 15" l7' system... a zx2500.1 that's above the 1000 huh bitch, leave this thread, thank you
please quit bitching and leave this thread

oleras, one of the most bad *** setups around on your video

You obviously have no idea what you are talking about. The gain adjustment simply compensates for input voltage from the head unit. If you adjust it right, you will have no problem with clipping, overheating the amp, etc. Bass boost should be off as you are planning.

And how is 2500w on a pair any different than the 1000w+ you will get from the 1000.1? In all reality, you are looking at 2800w from the 2500 and 1300 from the 1000(relatively average outputs based on the birthsheets I've seen). That means you would be seeing about 100w difference for each sub, which would be completely inaudible.

Sure the L7 can take more than rated power, but if you don't know what you're doing (Which you don't seem to) I would not be surprised in the least if you blew that sub on the 1500.1.

Really, unless you are planning to upgrade in the near future, there is no reason to get the 1500.1