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How much deadener do you really need?
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<blockquote data-quote="just call me KeV" data-source="post: 8803091" data-attributes="member: 656095"><p>I went with a heroic (psychotic) level of deadening so you can check my build to get some ideas. I can tell you that deadener is the very first step of many. There are many materials that you can use in conjunction with each other as well.</p><p>I'm old dog so I like to mass load as well. My car was obnoxiously loud before deadening. "Rickety shitbox"; I believe were the words I used. The difference after though could almost be called obscene. Here is a list of the materials I have used thus far.</p><p></p><p>1.Noico, audiotechnix, and siless deadener. 80-120 even if you put it in the sun you should still use a heat gun.</p><p>2. Neoprene. 1/8"-1/2" thick depending on location Self adhesive backed and non.</p><p>3. Mass loaded vinyl. 1-2 lb. per sq.ft. depending on location. Expensive and heavy in equal measure</p><p>4. Egg crate foam with adhesive back. This doesnt have to be thick. Larger panels. B pillars. On the door cards if you can mange it. Rear deck area.</p><p>5. Jut/denim stuffing. Used in upholstery projects. These fill in empty cavities. I take small bunches and stuff them in until full using a thin blade screwdriver. Not tight mind you but somewhat loosely packed. Hexibase and a member here put me on to that.</p><p>6. Butyl rope. This is great for decoupling panels, sound and vibration isolation. Gooey so be forewarned.</p><p>7. Non hardening modeling clay. I like crayola or the cheaper brands. Plastina leaked wax and made a huge mess.</p><p>8. Lead shot and or .177 Copper jacketed bb's. This is mixed with the clay and placed around baffles. I do 2-4lbs. usually.</p><p>9. Felt washers. These go under plastic upholstery pins. Like for trim panels and the door cards. Plastic-metal direct contact is no bueno.</p><p>10. Roll of window weatherstripping. The white kind you can find at home depot is fine. It works where the butyl won't because it can get super messy.</p><p>11. Aluminum tape. I use this to tape down harnesses cables etc. I also used it for the mlv. You want the mlv to be secured but still have mobility.</p><p>12. Aluminum flashing. I would cut this for holes on the doors. Screw in place then cover with deadener. Works awesome.</p><p></p><p>Yeah, it's a big list. For my part, a sizeable amount of my budget is dedictated to this. You could do less or more depending on your objectives, personal preference, budget.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="just call me KeV, post: 8803091, member: 656095"] I went with a heroic (psychotic) level of deadening so you can check my build to get some ideas. I can tell you that deadener is the very first step of many. There are many materials that you can use in conjunction with each other as well. I'm old dog so I like to mass load as well. My car was obnoxiously loud before deadening. "Rickety shitbox"; I believe were the words I used. The difference after though could almost be called obscene. Here is a list of the materials I have used thus far. 1.Noico, audiotechnix, and siless deadener. 80-120 even if you put it in the sun you should still use a heat gun. 2. Neoprene. 1/8"-1/2" thick depending on location Self adhesive backed and non. 3. Mass loaded vinyl. 1-2 lb. per sq.ft. depending on location. Expensive and heavy in equal measure 4. Egg crate foam with adhesive back. This doesnt have to be thick. Larger panels. B pillars. On the door cards if you can mange it. Rear deck area. 5. Jut/denim stuffing. Used in upholstery projects. These fill in empty cavities. I take small bunches and stuff them in until full using a thin blade screwdriver. Not tight mind you but somewhat loosely packed. Hexibase and a member here put me on to that. 6. Butyl rope. This is great for decoupling panels, sound and vibration isolation. Gooey so be forewarned. 7. Non hardening modeling clay. I like crayola or the cheaper brands. Plastina leaked wax and made a huge mess. 8. Lead shot and or .177 Copper jacketed bb's. This is mixed with the clay and placed around baffles. I do 2-4lbs. usually. 9. Felt washers. These go under plastic upholstery pins. Like for trim panels and the door cards. Plastic-metal direct contact is no bueno. 10. Roll of window weatherstripping. The white kind you can find at home depot is fine. It works where the butyl won't because it can get super messy. 11. Aluminum tape. I use this to tape down harnesses cables etc. I also used it for the mlv. You want the mlv to be secured but still have mobility. 12. Aluminum flashing. I would cut this for holes on the doors. Screw in place then cover with deadener. Works awesome. Yeah, it's a big list. For my part, a sizeable amount of my budget is dedictated to this. You could do less or more depending on your objectives, personal preference, budget. [/QUOTE]
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How much deadener do you really need?
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