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How close to peak power do you all push your components?
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<blockquote data-quote="blazian87" data-source="post: 8681778" data-attributes="member: 574798"><p>Have you considered going active? I feel like if you're going to go through the trouble of bi-amping with a passive crossover, then going fully active with a dsp would be the next big step up with way better results. The dayton dsp has the bluetooth module where you can tune and play music through bluetooth; bypassing the headunit completely. It's pretty small and could be tucked in the trunk somewhere. It's not that expensive either. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is a lot of wasted power in a passive crossover setup. Once you get rid of that in the whole equation, then it will no longer be a hindrance and you can tune the speakers however you like without limitations and also be very efficient in the power it takes in. You'll notice your gains will actually be lower to reach the same loudness because it's separated into its own channels. It doesn't need gobs of power like a passive setup.</p><p></p><p>I like how some companies make the bi-amping option in their crossovers, which is cool but after trying it and hearing the difference myself, it didn't make that much of a difference in sound except that you can control the tweeter and mids separately. That's about it. Nothing special. Might have 2 or 3 settings that you can play around with but it still feels very limited. If you get rid of the crossover and put each speaker on their own channels, you can time align them and eq them and set your own crossovers with a finer tune. I'm just saying that's what I would do if I had your vehicle with the current setup you have. Something to think about..</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="blazian87, post: 8681778, member: 574798"] Have you considered going active? I feel like if you're going to go through the trouble of bi-amping with a passive crossover, then going fully active with a dsp would be the next big step up with way better results. The dayton dsp has the bluetooth module where you can tune and play music through bluetooth; bypassing the headunit completely. It's pretty small and could be tucked in the trunk somewhere. It's not that expensive either. Another thing to keep in mind is that there is a lot of wasted power in a passive crossover setup. Once you get rid of that in the whole equation, then it will no longer be a hindrance and you can tune the speakers however you like without limitations and also be very efficient in the power it takes in. You'll notice your gains will actually be lower to reach the same loudness because it's separated into its own channels. It doesn't need gobs of power like a passive setup. I like how some companies make the bi-amping option in their crossovers, which is cool but after trying it and hearing the difference myself, it didn't make that much of a difference in sound except that you can control the tweeter and mids separately. That's about it. Nothing special. Might have 2 or 3 settings that you can play around with but it still feels very limited. If you get rid of the crossover and put each speaker on their own channels, you can time align them and eq them and set your own crossovers with a finer tune. I'm just saying that's what I would do if I had your vehicle with the current setup you have. Something to think about.. [/QUOTE]
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How close to peak power do you all push your components?
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