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hooking up a second car battery
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<blockquote data-quote="audiolife" data-source="post: 6681874" data-attributes="member: 541383"><p>It would depend on the matterials of the frame in which many frames/sub frames in a vehicle are not as "solid" steel" as you might think. Some have alloys and are weilded/bolted to gether without very conductive materials. I drive a 89 chevy S-10 and I gained between .2 to .3 volts grounding my amp/amps to the front battery vs a short run to the frame. In a uni body car I wouldnt even take the time to find a rear ground as there is nothing solid front to back in most of them. The very reason why the excuse of having the shortest ground as possible is even used is to lower the cost of matterials (thiner wire) and the potential (huge) difference in grounds front and back in unibody cars.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="audiolife, post: 6681874, member: 541383"] It would depend on the matterials of the frame in which many frames/sub frames in a vehicle are not as "solid" steel" as you might think. Some have alloys and are weilded/bolted to gether without very conductive materials. I drive a 89 chevy S-10 and I gained between .2 to .3 volts grounding my amp/amps to the front battery vs a short run to the frame. In a uni body car I wouldnt even take the time to find a rear ground as there is nothing solid front to back in most of them. The very reason why the excuse of having the shortest ground as possible is even used is to lower the cost of matterials (thiner wire) and the potential (huge) difference in grounds front and back in unibody cars. [/QUOTE]
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