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<blockquote data-quote="CarAudioGuru" data-source="post: 4960239" data-attributes="member: 600532">I&#039;m with you - testing amplifiers on a bench is BS!&nbsp; Had that fight a MILLION times with my engineers at PG.Speakers are NOT load resistors, like on a test bench.&nbsp; Music does not have Sine waves in it, like how amplifiers are tested.So the only real way is in a car&nbsp; playing your music and testing it LIVE, with a good scope and voltmeter AND RTA (which I just happen to carry with me on all my trips out into the field with Audison/Hertz -that I do about 2 weeks out of the month).Then when you change to a different amplifier you have a real &quot;base&quot; to look at and see what is going on.&nbsp; If my amp swings 32 volts into your speakers and your amp swings 32 volts into into the same speakers they make the same power.And theoretically there should be very little difference in current draw assuming they both are Class D amplifiers.&nbsp; Correct?My formulas came about because teaching installers this stuff was TOUGH.And they all think its magic anyway, so I try to take the magic out.Give them simple formulas so they can see what gauge wire thy should use, fusing, alternator/battery&nbsp; upgrade, etc.That it isn&#039;t exactly perfect.&nbsp; I agree.&nbsp; But in REAL WORLD, very close.Its way better than the MAGIC they think is happening now (go on the other amplifier thread here about some amplifier swinging 130 volts out!!&nbsp; Into a 0.5 ohm load?&nbsp; Check that one out!!!)Reality is a mother, for sure.&nbsp; I deal with real world testing.Not JUST theory.&nbsp; Shit I&#039;ve tested for REAL.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="CarAudioGuru, post: 4960239, member: 600532"] I'm with you - testing amplifiers on a bench is BS! Had that fight a MILLION times with my engineers at PG. Speakers are NOT load resistors, like on a test bench. Music does not have Sine waves in it, like how amplifiers are tested. So the only real way is in a car playing your music and testing it LIVE, with a good scope and voltmeter AND RTA (which I just happen to carry with me on all my trips out into the field with Audison/Hertz -that I do about 2 weeks out of the month). Then when you change to a different amplifier you have a real "base" to look at and see what is going on. If my amp swings 32 volts into your speakers and your amp swings 32 volts into into the same speakers they make the same power. And theoretically there should be very little difference in current draw assuming they both are Class D amplifiers. Correct? My formulas came about because teaching installers this stuff was TOUGH. And they all think its magic anyway, so I try to take the magic out. Give them simple formulas so they can see what gauge wire thy should use, fusing, alternator/battery upgrade, etc. That it isn't exactly perfect. I agree. But in REAL WORLD, very close. Its way better than the MAGIC they think is happening now (go on the other amplifier thread here about some amplifier swinging 130 volts out!! Into a 0.5 ohm load? Check that one out!!!) Reality is a mother, for sure. I deal with real world testing. Not JUST theory. Shit I've tested for REAL. [/QUOTE]

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