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GROUND WIRE PROFESSIONS plz read:
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<blockquote data-quote="forbidden" data-source="post: 600477" data-attributes="member: 552189"><p>This is a case of the assumed way of doing things vs another assumed way of doing things. Just because a manufacturer may write in their install manual to ensure that the ground wire is no longer than 3' does not mean that they are correct. In the same manual if it says the amp must be dropped from a height of 6' before installation would you believe it? People believe what they read because that is what they have been led to believe.</p><p></p><p>The fact of the matter is that electricity is an algebra equation. Meaning what you do to one side you MUST do to the other. I have said this time and time again and some people listen, others including installers go about things the same way instead of trying to learn something new. It is not about the amount of metal in the vehicle, it is about the resistance of the metal as current travels through it. Current flows negative to positive, thus the ground wire is one of the most important connections there is. Back to algebra here. If you are trying to put +100 amps of current into your amplifier, then the exact opposite needs to come out the ground wire. If there is a high resistance on the ground return then the equation is not equal. The equation must remain equal or as close to it as possible in order to use the system to it's full capabilities.</p><p></p><p>A good ground is usually less than 1/2 ohm of resistance on the ground return. If the ground return is not this low or cannot be made to get this low by means of the BIG 3, then it is adviseable to run a ground line direct to the battery, the same as you did for the power line. Why would you not hook a power line to a inside fuse box? Because it cannot carry enough current, the same goes for a ground.</p><p></p><p>There is generally nothing wrong with running a ground line direct to the battery, all ground terminations is a vehicle end up there regardless of where they are anyways. Some people argue that all that this does is cost the customer more $ on unnecessary wire, for those that have done it and have found the difference or have taken the time to learn about resistance on a ground return, they now know something different as your friend has.</p><p></p><p>This is summed up as simple as this. You eat a foot long sub and then someone sews your buttcheeks closed, get the drfit. This is resistance on a ground return.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="forbidden, post: 600477, member: 552189"] This is a case of the assumed way of doing things vs another assumed way of doing things. Just because a manufacturer may write in their install manual to ensure that the ground wire is no longer than 3' does not mean that they are correct. In the same manual if it says the amp must be dropped from a height of 6' before installation would you believe it? People believe what they read because that is what they have been led to believe. The fact of the matter is that electricity is an algebra equation. Meaning what you do to one side you MUST do to the other. I have said this time and time again and some people listen, others including installers go about things the same way instead of trying to learn something new. It is not about the amount of metal in the vehicle, it is about the resistance of the metal as current travels through it. Current flows negative to positive, thus the ground wire is one of the most important connections there is. Back to algebra here. If you are trying to put +100 amps of current into your amplifier, then the exact opposite needs to come out the ground wire. If there is a high resistance on the ground return then the equation is not equal. The equation must remain equal or as close to it as possible in order to use the system to it's full capabilities. A good ground is usually less than 1/2 ohm of resistance on the ground return. If the ground return is not this low or cannot be made to get this low by means of the BIG 3, then it is adviseable to run a ground line direct to the battery, the same as you did for the power line. Why would you not hook a power line to a inside fuse box? Because it cannot carry enough current, the same goes for a ground. There is generally nothing wrong with running a ground line direct to the battery, all ground terminations is a vehicle end up there regardless of where they are anyways. Some people argue that all that this does is cost the customer more $ on unnecessary wire, for those that have done it and have found the difference or have taken the time to learn about resistance on a ground return, they now know something different as your friend has. This is summed up as simple as this. You eat a foot long sub and then someone sews your buttcheeks closed, get the drfit. This is resistance on a ground return. [/QUOTE]
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