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ground wire guage
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<blockquote data-quote="pavengmike6" data-source="post: 414835" data-attributes="member: 553009"><p>Seeing I am not this good with the quote thing I will just say what is from the post before.</p><p></p><p>It does not matter if it is AC or DC. There is an electronic field around all wires. (that have power going through them) The field size can be different sizes based of the amount of power going through the wire, and the amount of sheilding on the wire. The wire that your stereo is using is AC, but that too can pick up a signal from your DC power wire if they are run to close to each other. YES HELO rubber is used as a shield, so you have seen sheilded power wire. I was not talking about the 100.00 a foot aircraft wire. Take a look at different wires, and you will see what I mean. The cheaper wire is cheaper for a number of reasons. 1st is the amount of wires inside the rubber coating, 2nd is the material the wire is made of (copper, steel, tin) 3rd is the amount of rubber shielding around the outside. Your cheaper wires will have half the amount of strands on the inside made out of a different material, and the rubber coating will be smaller. That is what I meant by shielding.</p><p></p><p>Now if you stack your grounds you can raise the resistance at the grounding point. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance, which in some cases will be through the RCA's (groundloop). Same thing you were saying. Plus grounding to the sheet metal in your car is not the best way to ground a system. (because as you said the sheet metal is not the best conductor). By stacking the grounds and grounding it to the sheet metal you are asking for groundloop problems.</p><p></p><p>The whole object to what I was saying is space your wires apart, and do not skimp and buy cheap wire. Do it right the first time to keep any problems from comming up. Anything is possible when you are dealing with electricity. Granted it is supposed to work a certain way, but if you have had to trouble shoot things you will know that anything is possible.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pavengmike6, post: 414835, member: 553009"] Seeing I am not this good with the quote thing I will just say what is from the post before. It does not matter if it is AC or DC. There is an electronic field around all wires. (that have power going through them) The field size can be different sizes based of the amount of power going through the wire, and the amount of sheilding on the wire. The wire that your stereo is using is AC, but that too can pick up a signal from your DC power wire if they are run to close to each other. YES HELO rubber is used as a shield, so you have seen sheilded power wire. I was not talking about the 100.00 a foot aircraft wire. Take a look at different wires, and you will see what I mean. The cheaper wire is cheaper for a number of reasons. 1st is the amount of wires inside the rubber coating, 2nd is the material the wire is made of (copper, steel, tin) 3rd is the amount of rubber shielding around the outside. Your cheaper wires will have half the amount of strands on the inside made out of a different material, and the rubber coating will be smaller. That is what I meant by shielding. Now if you stack your grounds you can raise the resistance at the grounding point. Electricity will follow the path of least resistance, which in some cases will be through the RCA's (groundloop). Same thing you were saying. Plus grounding to the sheet metal in your car is not the best way to ground a system. (because as you said the sheet metal is not the best conductor). By stacking the grounds and grounding it to the sheet metal you are asking for groundloop problems. The whole object to what I was saying is space your wires apart, and do not skimp and buy cheap wire. Do it right the first time to keep any problems from comming up. Anything is possible when you are dealing with electricity. Granted it is supposed to work a certain way, but if you have had to trouble shoot things you will know that anything is possible. [/QUOTE]
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