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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 8309321" data-attributes="member: 576029">resistors commonly fail when MOSFET&#039;s or other components fail - the other components just aren&#039;t as visible.&nbsp; when a transistor shorts, it can take other stuff with it.&nbsp; that resistor is likely tied to Q50 or Q46.&nbsp; I would start by measuring resistance between the legs on Q46 and the adjacent MOSFETs.if the tutorial intimidates you, then you shouldn&#039;t attempt a DIY repair.&nbsp; i think the amp is salvageable, no need to destroy it trying to fix it.&nbsp; or, consider it a cheap learning platform but invest the time to study the tutorial and know what you&#039;re doing when you do it.&nbsp; you will need to follow the traces in order to see how everything is tied together.&nbsp; i like using a light on the back side of the board to see traces on both sides at the same time - makes tracing the circuit easier.you&#039;ll need some thermal paste and silicone MOSFET isolators (i forgot to mention them earlier).&nbsp; when you lift the amp board off the heatsink, you will need to evaluate the isolation pads on each MOSFET and add new thermal paste on each one (regardless if they are replaced or not).&nbsp; neglecting this can cause premature failure on the other transistors when they overheat because of poor thermal conductivity.when stuff fails, it can take the pads with it.&nbsp; then the repair becomes trickier because you cannot easily repair a pad but instead replace the trace associated with the pad with a wire.and you want to fix the issue in its entirety so you don&#039;t keep blowing stuff up.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 8309321, member: 576029"] resistors commonly fail when MOSFET's or other components fail - the other components just aren't as visible. when a transistor shorts, it can take other stuff with it. that resistor is likely tied to Q50 or Q46. I would start by measuring resistance between the legs on Q46 and the adjacent MOSFETs. if the tutorial intimidates you, then you shouldn't attempt a DIY repair. i think the amp is salvageable, no need to destroy it trying to fix it. or, consider it a cheap learning platform but invest the time to study the tutorial and know what you're doing when you do it. you will need to follow the traces in order to see how everything is tied together. i like using a light on the back side of the board to see traces on both sides at the same time - makes tracing the circuit easier. you'll need some thermal paste and silicone MOSFET isolators (i forgot to mention them earlier). when you lift the amp board off the heatsink, you will need to evaluate the isolation pads on each MOSFET and add new thermal paste on each one (regardless if they are replaced or not). neglecting this can cause premature failure on the other transistors when they overheat because of poor thermal conductivity. when stuff fails, it can take the pads with it. then the repair becomes trickier because you cannot easily repair a pad but instead replace the trace associated with the pad with a wire. and you want to fix the issue in its entirety so you don't keep blowing stuff up. [/QUOTE]

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