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Wiring, Electrical & Installation
front to rear neg. wire runs ????'s
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<blockquote data-quote="adas" data-source="post: 7939514" data-attributes="member: 567046"><p>It honestly does not make sense to run 3 runs of 1/0 positive to the back battery bank, and just use a ground to the frame.</p><p></p><p>Your typical frame is about the equivilent to one 1/0 to 2/0 run from front to back in most vehicles.</p><p></p><p>That means with no equal amounts of negative current capacity, IMO, your wasting money on a extra postive run of 1/0, and missing the point</p><p></p><p>DC requires both positive and negative equally, and only as strong as it's weakest point.</p><p></p><p>A dedicated ground run is even more important when running High output alts 250a+ as relying on the engine block to frame to rear of a vehicle is not enough if your trying to charge 250+ amps continuous AND draw from the front battery.</p><p></p><p>Just saw prime example of this on a locals build. Tons of subs on 9k+ RMS, 6 battery bank w/buss bars, 350a alternator, doubled up big 3, 4 runs of positive to rear...and just a solid frame ground in rear....after minutes of demoing, his Negative side buss bar gets almost hot to the touch....positive side cold...and he can't figure out why his alt won't charge up the rear bank at 13v+...negative side is getting bottlenecked and alt can't efficiently charge up the back.</p><p></p><p>Hope that helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="adas, post: 7939514, member: 567046"] It honestly does not make sense to run 3 runs of 1/0 positive to the back battery bank, and just use a ground to the frame. Your typical frame is about the equivilent to one 1/0 to 2/0 run from front to back in most vehicles. That means with no equal amounts of negative current capacity, IMO, your wasting money on a extra postive run of 1/0, and missing the point DC requires both positive and negative equally, and only as strong as it's weakest point. A dedicated ground run is even more important when running High output alts 250a+ as relying on the engine block to frame to rear of a vehicle is not enough if your trying to charge 250+ amps continuous AND draw from the front battery. Just saw prime example of this on a locals build. Tons of subs on 9k+ RMS, 6 battery bank w/buss bars, 350a alternator, doubled up big 3, 4 runs of positive to rear...and just a solid frame ground in rear....after minutes of demoing, his Negative side buss bar gets almost hot to the touch....positive side cold...and he can't figure out why his alt won't charge up the rear bank at 13v+...negative side is getting bottlenecked and alt can't efficiently charge up the back. Hope that helps. [/QUOTE]
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front to rear neg. wire runs ????'s
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