Found a SICK deal on PDX 1000.1 but have a few questions though

[papito 10+ year member]

Meeting up with a dude locally tomorrow to buy a PDX 1000.1 for $200. Good deal or not so good? I've seen them on eBay for like $300 so I thought this was very fair price.

Anyways, I have some questions. I've heard many things about this amp, and I'm confused about the power ratings....It really does rated power at both 2 and 4 ohms? It won't play less loud at 4 ohms basically....if thats the case than I should wire my subs up to 4 ohms just to put less strain on my electrical.

Also, I've heard these are a PITA to tune....my HU puts out only 2v preouts, so will this amp be hard to tune...should i get a line driver?

And finally, what subs should I run on this? I want SPL and decent SQ too.....I was thinking a JL W7 13, but what if thats not loud enough. Maybe 2 DC level 3 12" but won't I be under powering them or are these amps under rated....I'm confused LOL

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[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

- I'd pay $200 for a PDX in good condition.

- Yes, much like the JL slash series, it'll do rated @ different impedances.

- If you're that worried about the 2v preouts, buy a line driver.

- The DC Level 4 would be a nice choice if you want to run a single sub.

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

- I'd pay $200 for a PDX in good condition. - Yes, much like the JL slash series, it'll do rated @ different impedances.

- If you're that worried about the 2v preouts, buy a line driver.

- The DC Level 4 would be a nice choice if you want to run a single sub.

By ratings its a nice choice, but it laughed at 1400@1. I could barely get mine moving in a box built perfectly to recommend specs by Rusty.

 

[papito 10+ year member]

I want to get as loud as possible so I'm thinking 2 12" (DC level 3)

Will those subs do good on that amp?

 

[90accordman 5,000+ posts]

2 level 3s should be a good choice on that amp

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

By ratings its a nice choice, but it laughed at 1400@1. I could barely get mine moving in a box built perfectly to recommend specs by Rusty.

My friend's Level 4 15" is doing work on a DC PAI-1000.1. I'm sure it could handle more power, but it seems to like that amplifier quite a bit...

 

[papito 10+ year member]

I don't think im going to have enough money for a box for the DC's.....so just incase, what would be the best pre enclosed sub setup I can buy online? I was thinking 2 kicker L5 12" or 2 kicker CVX 12" or something.....(hifisoundconnection.com has these in pre fab boxes that are legit)

 

[misfit138 5,000+ posts]

I don't think im going to have enough money for a box for the DC's.....so just incase, what would be the best pre enclosed sub setup I can buy online? I was thinking 2 kicker L5 12" or 2 kicker CVX 12" or something.....(hifisoundconnection.com has these in pre fab boxes that are legit)

Don't buy a loaded prefab, dude. They're overpriced as hell. Just buy the subs you want and put back a little cash here and there until you can afford the enclosure you need...

 

[Jh8909 10+ year member]

Don't buy a loaded prefab, dude. They're overpriced as hell. Just buy the subs you want and put back a little cash here and there until you can afford the enclosure you need...

OP take this mans advice. you'll be happier in the end.

 

[papito 10+ year member]

A local shop wants like $200 for a custom box :/

I was PMing some guy one here about building one, maybe he can hook me up w/ a better price.

EDIT: crap the DC's sold already //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

What good subs for SQL should I run, that can hit the low lows (in a box tuned to 32 Hz)

Thats for 2 12" and my budget is $300 for both give or take.

 

[stanky1219]

i have never heard a pdx 1000 but i have heard the mrp-450 and it was terrible. running 2 w1's in my uncles truck. he is now running a hifonics (cringe) and it kills the alpine in sq and output. what kinda sense does that make? LOL.

 

[papito 10+ year member]

I think I am just going to get another Alpine Type R, and run both of them for a 4 ohm final load, since the amp produces 1000 at 4 ohms, which will put less strain on my electrical (running @ 4 ohms vs. 2 ohms), and it will be cheapest for me since I already have 1 type r.

 

[stanky1219]

sounds like a winner to me.