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Car Audio Equipment
Subwoofers
Ford F-150 Rear Subs
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<blockquote data-quote="Doxquzme" data-source="post: 8855192" data-attributes="member: 689267"><p>The JL is on the spendy side, nice equioment though. For the amp, I’d probably go with the Taramps MD 1200.1 at $159.32. 1000 watts @2 ohms (no such thing as too much power) and the Kenwood you list is about 375 watts (@ 14.4 volts/85% efficiency)</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B074KQP62F[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>CT Sounds pure OFC copper wiring kit $59.99</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B06XVDF4SK[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>I’m thinking that you will be tapping into the speaker leads to get your signal unless the factory unit has RCA’s. This is an NVX high voltage LOC and you can get an optional remote bass knob if you want to have extra control.</p><p></p><p>[MEDIA=amazon]B09CF38C73[/MEDIA]</p><p></p><p>If I have the correct woofer, the 10W1v3-4? According to JL’s site, it’s optimized for a sealed enclosure, that box is ported. I did some looking around and found a good drop in that will allow you to run each subwoofers 2 coils in series (dual 2ohm) and then the two subs in parallel to the amp for a 2ohm load (and a real 1000 watts) @ that 2 ohm load. Amplifier isn’t working hard, subs are more than capable – and they are each $10 dollars less! I’m a fan of JL, but they really don’t like to play with others in that $150.00 to $250.00, saturated price point (from my experience that is). These are nice drop in for the box you picked out.</p><p></p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/185805815326?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]</p><p></p><p>There are a lot of 10” subs that you’ll likely get recommends on. Just need to be sure that it will play nice in that ported 1 Cu Ft chamber (per 10” sub).</p><p></p><p><img src="data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7" class="smilie smilie--sprite smilie--sprite2" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" loading="lazy" data-shortname=";)" /></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Doxquzme, post: 8855192, member: 689267"] The JL is on the spendy side, nice equioment though. For the amp, I’d probably go with the Taramps MD 1200.1 at $159.32. 1000 watts @2 ohms (no such thing as too much power) and the Kenwood you list is about 375 watts (@ 14.4 volts/85% efficiency) [MEDIA=amazon]B074KQP62F[/MEDIA] CT Sounds pure OFC copper wiring kit $59.99 [MEDIA=amazon]B06XVDF4SK[/MEDIA] I’m thinking that you will be tapping into the speaker leads to get your signal unless the factory unit has RCA’s. This is an NVX high voltage LOC and you can get an optional remote bass knob if you want to have extra control. [MEDIA=amazon]B09CF38C73[/MEDIA] If I have the correct woofer, the 10W1v3-4? According to JL’s site, it’s optimized for a sealed enclosure, that box is ported. I did some looking around and found a good drop in that will allow you to run each subwoofers 2 coils in series (dual 2ohm) and then the two subs in parallel to the amp for a 2ohm load (and a real 1000 watts) @ that 2 ohm load. Amplifier isn’t working hard, subs are more than capable – and they are each $10 dollars less! I’m a fan of JL, but they really don’t like to play with others in that $150.00 to $250.00, saturated price point (from my experience that is). These are nice drop in for the box you picked out. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.ebay.com/itm/185805815326?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&customid=link&campid=5335951755&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL] There are a lot of 10” subs that you’ll likely get recommends on. Just need to be sure that it will play nice in that ported 1 Cu Ft chamber (per 10” sub). ;) [/QUOTE]
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