Sold For Sale: Toyota Camry HO Alternator

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

I have an alternator that I am interested in selling. It is in complete working condition and perfect physical shape. It's been used for about 4 months, and I am selling it because I am beginning to believe that it does not produce enough current for my car audio needs.

It is rated at 180 Amps and is from Excessive Amperage. I purchased it for a 1995 Toyota Camry and I believe that it will mount to other years for the Camry.

As soon as I recieve a list of other years / cars that this alternator will fit, I will post it.

I purchased it for $265 shipped, so I'll sell it for $180 plus shipping.

Thanks!

Brian

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[its_bacon12 10+ year member]

do u know what engine model it is?

i have a 95 geo prizm with a toyota 4A-FE engine

lmk !

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

Ohhh no idea. I am trying to find a picture

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

That is the old stock alternator. I will take a picture of the HO alternator tomorrow.

$180 plus shipping, let me know

 

[midwestcustoms3 10+ year member]

wish i had the cash, im needing one for my 95 camry //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

I'm just wondering what else you're going to get?

Does your shit idle at like 600rpms or something. It'll easily create rated current @900-1200 RPMS...and more @ around 2000rpms (driving around).

If you're worried, I think you already have one yellow topunder the hood correct? Get one more yellow top and you'll be set.

I'm running TWO Modded 1501d's (@ .7ohm), Kicker 450.2, and a Kicker 200.2 on my 220 amp Mean-Green. I have a Kinetik HC2400 under the hood and a D31 Yellow top in the rear with no problems at all. Obviously mine electrical is a little more beefy...but I'm also prolly pulling more current //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

And PLEASE don't tell me your getting rid of this b/c of that ghey shit you and Mike measured...with an f-in multimeter. That is in NO way accurate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

NG

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

I'm just wondering what else you're going to get?
Does your shit idle at like 600rpms or something. It'll easily create rated current @900-1200 RPMS...and more @ around 2000rpms (driving around).

If you're worried, I think you already have one yellow topunder the hood correct? Get one more yellow top and you'll be set.

I'm running TWO Modded 1501d's (@ .7ohm), Kicker 450.2, and a Kicker 200.2 on my 220 amp Mean-Green. I have a Kinetik HC2400 under the hood and a D31 Yellow top in the rear with no problems at all. Obviously mine electrical is a little more beefy...but I'm also prolly pulling more current //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

And PLEASE don't tell me your getting rid of this b/c of that ghey shit you and Mike measured...with an f-in multimeter. That is in NO way accurate //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

NG

Well yeah. My car idles too low for the alternator to kick on.. at all. It just worries me sometimes about that. I don't like how my lights are a different brightness stopped vs. when i accelerate. Also, assuming 40 amps for the rest of the car, i have four amps; with fuse ratings of 100, 80, 80, and 60. Total 360 amps max current...

I just don't want to chance it is all. Are there any other ways to help it out?

 

[krouchchocolate 10+ year member]

i have a 88 toyota camry. Will it work with it?

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

Also Noah i think you have me mixed up with Mike's other friend Tim Boyer. Just a thought

I'm not sure; try takin a picture of your alt and posting it, i'll compare the mounts

 

[ngsm13 5,000+ posts]

Also Noah i think you have me mixed up with Mike's other friend Tim Boyer. Just a thought
I'm not sure; try takin a picture of your alt and posting it, i'll compare the mounts

Well Tim doesn't have an Excessive Amperage alternator, it was you the Mike was talking about.

I'd try to adjust your idle speed on you engine...it's not hard...get it to around 900-1000rpms and you'll be MONEY. Add a yellow top in the back and you're set.

I mean, a NON-modded 1501d requires a 150amp fuse...I have two of them...@.7ohms each. Personally I'm looking at 380 amps of fusing...and my system is stable as shit. Just to let you know...

NG

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

okay -

about increasing idle - i leave my car on (in park) a LOT, due to the nature of my work

does a car use as much gas at 700rpm in park as it does at 700rpm in drive?

 

[94CamryBumpin 10+ year member]

just to let u know...GCAdidas has a 5SFE engine...its the base I-4 engine for gen 3 camry's...

 

[GCAdidas13 10+ year member]

just to let u know...GCAdidas has a 5SFE engine...its the base I-4 engine for gen 3 camry's...

does that mean this alt will/will not work for you? (or do you already have an HO?)

 

[audiolife 5,000+ posts]

get a smaller diameter pulley for the alt geessss the smaller the pulley the more rpms it does per belt rotation.........

 

[94CamryBumpin 10+ year member]

no i was just tryin to help your thread...with the engine that the alt was on...i don't have enough money to buy it...or else i probably would...