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<blockquote data-quote="HardofWhoring" data-source="post: 8859921" data-attributes="member: 674149">* The fuse at the start of the cable needs to be equal to or greater than the fuse/load at the end of the run.*&nbsp; The cable needs to be capable of handling more than the fuse (IMO, at least 15% more).&nbsp;&nbsp; The fuse is you INTENTIONALLY adding in a weak point.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you have a problem you want it to happen where it is protected, where it can be easily fixed and more importantly controlled.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you put a fuse inline that is higher than what the cable can do, then the fuse is pointless, and you&#039;ll burn the wire first. [URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yKWdO6pOYAd/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html[/URL]<img src="https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20230418135400/ImageHandler/scale/978/978/core/learn/article/1112/Gauge-Chart.png" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" />I would go 8awg off the splitter, and 4awg off the battery.&nbsp;&nbsp; The cable can be as large as you want.&nbsp; It causes less resistance, costs a little more, and takes up a little more physical space.&nbsp; &nbsp; If your amp&#039;s terminals can fit it, then no reason you can&#039;t just buy a 4awg kit, and run all 4awg.&nbsp;&nbsp; If you buy a 4awg run, you might just have enough left to do all of it 4awg. This chart, (and every chart you see) is assumed that you are using OFC wire, (not CCA). <h2>RMS Power Ratings</h2>
<ul>
<li data-xf-list-type="ul">Per Channel into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 50W</li>
<li data-xf-list-type="ul">Per Channel into 2ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 70W</li>
<li data-xf-list-type="ul">Bridged into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 2 x 130W</li>
</ul>[URL unfurl=&quot;true&quot;]https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/bbx-amplifiers4216/bbx-f1200[/URL]30w speakers shouldn&#039;t sound bad, (just won&#039;t get really loud).&nbsp;&nbsp; Your gain could have been set probably too high, and may have damaged them.&nbsp; &nbsp; You&#039;ll get more volume out of speakers that are 50w and have the gain set right.&nbsp;&nbsp; You might have had the crossovers set incorrectly, (turn those off).</blockquote>

[QUOTE="HardofWhoring, post: 8859921, member: 674149"] * The fuse at the start of the cable needs to be equal to or greater than the fuse/load at the end of the run. * The cable needs to be capable of handling more than the fuse (IMO, at least 15% more). The fuse is you INTENTIONALLY adding in a weak point. If you have a problem you want it to happen where it is protected, where it can be easily fixed and more importantly controlled. If you put a fuse inline that is higher than what the cable can do, then the fuse is pointless, and you'll burn the wire first. [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yKWdO6pOYAd/learn/learningcenter/car/cable_gauge_chart.html[/URL] [IMG]https://images.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20230418135400/ImageHandler/scale/978/978/core/learn/article/1112/Gauge-Chart.png[/IMG] I would go 8awg off the splitter, and 4awg off the battery. The cable can be as large as you want. It causes less resistance, costs a little more, and takes up a little more physical space. If your amp's terminals can fit it, then no reason you can't just buy a 4awg kit, and run all 4awg. If you buy a 4awg run, you might just have enough left to do all of it 4awg. This chart, (and every chart you see) is assumed that you are using OFC wire, (not CCA). [HEADING=1]RMS Power Ratings[/HEADING] [LIST] [*]Per Channel into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 50W [*]Per Channel into 2ohms (≤1%THD+N): 4 x 70W [*]Bridged into 4ohms (≤1%THD+N): 2 x 130W [/LIST] [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/bbx-amplifiers4216/bbx-f1200[/URL] 30w speakers shouldn't sound bad, (just won't get really loud). Your gain could have been set probably too high, and may have damaged them. You'll get more volume out of speakers that are 50w and have the gain set right. You might have had the crossovers set incorrectly, (turn those off). [/QUOTE]

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