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<blockquote data-quote="keep_hope_alive" data-source="post: 7407777" data-attributes="member: 576029">velcro will not hold the amp.&nbsp; amplifier and ambient temp will cause the velcro to lose adhesion to the amp.&nbsp; the carpet isn&#039;t perfect for adhesion to the velcro.&nbsp; a short circuit from the amp moving could start a fire under your seat.i would drill straight through.&nbsp; it&#039;s just a floor pan - the factory drills through often.&nbsp; just protect the bolt heads with silicone.you could just use self-tapping sheet metal screws that were long enough, then seal the penetrations with silicone.an alternative to drilling is to use an adhesive.&nbsp; silicone works wonders but stinks.&nbsp; there are other construction adhesives that are made for bonding wood to metal.&nbsp; simply glue the wood board down to the floor.&nbsp; then when you replace the carpet, the carpet will also help hold everything in place.&nbsp; find strength in layers.all my amps are mounted with machine screws and all of my amp boards have t-nuts. i use t-nuts in all of my mounting boards and baffles.&nbsp; every amp, every speaker, is secured with machine screws into t-nuts.&nbsp; but i swap stuff often.&nbsp; drywall screws have no business in a car - but construction grade screws are ok.wiring from head unit to amp:&nbsp; you&#039;ll have a blue remote turn-on wire that will connect to the aftermarket head unit blue/white wire and route to each amplifier remote turn on.&nbsp; you can daisy-chain this connection, so route to the first amp, then to the second amp.&nbsp; avoid splices whenever possible.from head unit to amp is also your RCA cables.&nbsp; you&#039;ll need six channels - a four channel and a two channel, or 3 two channels.&nbsp; since the amps are under your seats, 2m (6 ft) may be plenty.i would route wiring inside the center console.&nbsp; yes, it comes out.&nbsp; i recommend buying a $20 Haynes manual so you have instructions and wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="keep_hope_alive, post: 7407777, member: 576029"] velcro will not hold the amp. amplifier and ambient temp will cause the velcro to lose adhesion to the amp. the carpet isn't perfect for adhesion to the velcro. a short circuit from the amp moving could start a fire under your seat. i would drill straight through. it's just a floor pan - the factory drills through often. just protect the bolt heads with silicone. you could just use self-tapping sheet metal screws that were long enough, then seal the penetrations with silicone. an alternative to drilling is to use an adhesive. silicone works wonders but stinks. there are other construction adhesives that are made for bonding wood to metal. simply glue the wood board down to the floor. then when you replace the carpet, the carpet will also help hold everything in place. find strength in layers. all my amps are mounted with machine screws and all of my amp boards have t-nuts. i use t-nuts in all of my mounting boards and baffles. every amp, every speaker, is secured with machine screws into t-nuts. but i swap stuff often. drywall screws have no business in a car - but construction grade screws are ok. wiring from head unit to amp: you'll have a blue remote turn-on wire that will connect to the aftermarket head unit blue/white wire and route to each amplifier remote turn on. you can daisy-chain this connection, so route to the first amp, then to the second amp. avoid splices whenever possible. from head unit to amp is also your RCA cables. you'll need six channels - a four channel and a two channel, or 3 two channels. since the amps are under your seats, 2m (6 ft) may be plenty. i would route wiring inside the center console. yes, it comes out. i recommend buying a $20 Haynes manual so you have instructions and wiring diagrams for the entire vehicle. [/QUOTE]

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